The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (Otto Skorzeny, Gdads51, Wayne67vert, tclederman), 134 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,037
Posts1,055,580
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#944153 05/18/2013 9:23 PM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
OK time for the new guy to show how dumb he is. That is OK by me. I have a 52 1/2 ton. When I put the doors on I have a small misalignment with the cab. Followed the tech tip on this site. Doors work great and it went fast. But the driver side door rubs the cab at the front edge by the hinges. Nice and flush with a good gap until the door is opened. The front lip of the door rubs the cab. Bottom rear corner of the door is proud from the cab about 1/8 inch. the rest of the door is nice even gap all around and flush with the rest of the cab. I can only guess that the floor repair and the patch panel in the front put in by the P.O. were a bit off. Should I float the door out at the hinge and fill until it works and looks right? Looking for an idea cause I am fresh out.


Steve H
Steve_H #944166 05/18/2013 9:46 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Having it rub the cowl is not good so for sure you have to fix that. Have you got room to move it back on the hinge strap a little? As far as the rear I think you are after too much perfection.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Steve_H #944201 05/19/2013 12:41 AM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
Thanks for the response. I can move it out at the front and then smooth the repair out to match. Might be the best way to go. Thanks again, like I said I had run out of ideas and yes I wanted to make it FIT. Too much looking and too little fixing. Gotta stop that some day.


Steve H
Steve_H #944220 05/19/2013 6:02 AM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 324
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 324
Before making any alterations to the sheet metal I made small wooden wedges and fasten them with doube face tape around the opening. This gave me more control for adjusting door gap. Worked good for me. Hope this will help.

Steve_H #944418 05/19/2013 10:10 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
I was suggesting moving the door a little rearward to widen the gap and maybe prevent the rubbing.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Steve_H #946486 05/28/2013 9:43 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
"Nice and flush with a good gap until the door is opened". If you check the shop manual, you will find that the door is to be adjusted to be flush to 1/16" outward of the cowl to prevent interference with the door seal upon opening of the door. They say to bend the hinge to correct this. I notched the holes in the part of the hinge that bolts to the cab to get my door to have a 1/16" outward position. I was scared to mess with bending the hinges. Have you rebuilt your hinges? If not, you should start there, as that will most likely change how things fit. And if you are lucky, maybe to your favor. Of all the things that I have done to my truck, I am most proud of how my doors fit and close properly. It is not an easy thing to accomplish!


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
52Carl #946529 05/29/2013 12:50 AM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
Thanks to all. Cab cowl is all messed with. Floor is worked over as well. One new hinge on the driver side top and a good solid used one at the bottom. Tried two doors with the same fit issue. Now just gotta figure the best cheat to make it all better. Door fits great. closes very nice. No need to slam and the catch is great. Bottom corner is proud but that is easy. A little bondo and spread out the difference. The Gap at the front of the door is now much wider than the top, bottom and the rear. Might have a bit of a tweak in the pillar that the hinge is mounted to. I think the door was hit when open. Backed into a tree or door jamb. Not too sure how to fix that. But not enough to pull the rest of the cab out as far as I can tell. Might just have to pull the door out a bit at the front and smooth things as best as I can. Thanks again for the ideas, that is what I needed. And the info on this site. Got the king pins changed and have found how to make the 235 run nice here as well. So nice to get help from friendly folks.


Steve H

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0