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#940560 05/03/2013 1:34 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 91
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 91
I am putting the 3 speed column shift back in my 49 Chevy truck. I was wondering how far the upper column is screwed in so when the shifter is lifted to go into reverse. I don't want to get it together and find I do not have enough travel to change gears. Also how do I line up the gear shift linkage so I am in the right gears? This is the linkage from the steering column to the rods to the transmission.

Thanks

Bennie

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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got a shop manual? there's a pic on page 7-2 of that setup along with a lot of explanation, and measurements for what you're wondering about on the next page

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 506
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'Bolter
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I have a related question. I'll look in the shop manual when I get home, but I'll ask the question here as well.

Being tall (6'4") my right knee hits the shifter all the time when I'm in 3rd gear. I always have to ride with my knee hanging out to the side. Its no big deal for short trips but I'm sure it will get uncomfortable on longer rides.

I'm thinking of taking the long shifter rod off the column and redrilling the hole for the shifter lever locking pin in order to move it up a little. I won't need more than about 15-20 degrees. I'll obviously have to check for interference issues in reverse and second gears before I make the change.

Has anyone tried this? How hard would it be to pull that rod and redrill it?


Thanks

Larry
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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the rod from the lever down has a joint near the floor that attaches it to the rod that comes up from the shift box, easy to take the top assembly off the column - but I don't think there's any way to move any part of it without moving the whole thing .... here's the layout, everything is machined to keep it exactly in the correct relation to the rest so the box doesn't jam, which is a common enough problem without modifying things .... I suppose you could take the sheet metal lever off, cut it above the internal elbow at the knuckle ["upper control shaft/axial pivot"] and re shape it to be higher up

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Before you start altering things, you might check the linkage out to see if there isn't something possibly assembled incorrectly/damaged/worn that could be causing the issue. I'm 6'4" as well, and pushing the 300 pound mark, and have plenty of clearance between the shifter and my knee, about 2" or so.


Bill Burmeister
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Bill, note that some folks height is from the waist up and others it's from the waist down wink

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 8,351
True. I fit into the latter category, a trait I get from my Great Grandfathers side of the family. My Dad is the opposite, while still tall (about 6'2"), his is more in the torso that legs.


Bill Burmeister
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'Bolter
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Bill (Red);

That is a great layout drawing. Is that in the assembly or shop manual?

I'll look at that joint near the floor and see if it can be manipulated at all. I'm thinking of moving it about 15-20 degrees higher/counterclockwise to get the bottom positions (1st and 3rd) about 2-3 inches higher up.

The easiest way may be to pull the upper rod off the column, pulling the lever off the top of the rod and re-drilling the bolt/pin hole in order to move the handle up.

Bill (Longbox):

I'll look around and see if there is something amiss with the linkage.

I'll keep you posted.


Thanks

Larry
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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all the TF shop manuals should have it, prolly in the assembly manual too ... see this 55 manual section regarding the adjustment, you do not [should not] have 3" to play with, see the drawing on the following page, the adjustment from the shift knob to the wheel is less than 3", and the position of the lever with relation to its pivot is critical small fractions .... you'll be complaining about your knuckles next grin

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 91
4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 91
Thanks Bill,
This is just what I needed to complete the installation of the gear shift lever I do not have a shop manual so the link to the manual is very much appreciated

Bennie

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I am 6'5" and have no trouble with the 3 speed shifter but have a problem getting my foot on the brake pedal. Can never have 3 persons in the truck.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
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1989 Caprice
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'Bolter
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Bill;

I went back and read your post and looked at the manual for the third time. It finally hit me. I don't think I explained what I want to do well enough. Imagine yourself sitting in the drivers seat and looking down at the steering wheel. Using the steering wheel as a clock face, imagine the shifter lever as the hour hand.

Right now, when I'm in third gear the shifter lever is down at about the 4 oclock position and it hits my knee. What I want to do is move it counter-clockwise to about the 3 oclock position. That would put it around 12 oclock in reverse and second gears. I don't want to pull the lever up closer to the wheel, but swivel it counter-clockwise in relation to the wheel.

Does that make sense? Any other ideas? I saw in the manual that the lever should be horizontal in nuetral. There is some instruction on adjusting the position but its pretty confusing.



Thanks

Larry
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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the only way to adjust things the way you want is to fill and re-cut the slots in the rods at the joint down under the dash, if the joint bolts are not in slots the rod will turn any which way when you move the lever, that joint isn't just a "clamp" .... look closely at the way all the pieces work together to make the forks in the shift box do the right thing .... you may also find the knuckle at the top of the rod can't rotate far enough to catch reverse and 2nd properly if you rotate the rod, the whole thing is engineered to work as assembled, with no modification ... like I said, bend the lever

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics

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