The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 performance ?

I have a 1946 Chevy with the old 235 in it. As far as I know, it's the original drive train. I took it out for its first ride on the road today and even the smallest uphill caused it to lug down and I had to downshift. I had a '61 with a tired 235 years ago and it was quite a powerhouse for a small 6.
I know it's only rated at 93 HP, but it seems that an empty truck should be able to go up a small (not steep at all) hill in high gear. I do kino wit's been a few years since tis truck has been on the road. What should I be looking for? It sounds like it might be missing on one cylinder, but how do you tell?

If it was me I would start with checking the plugs, make sure the wires on the plugs were on. Change the fuel filter. start with the basics, maybe a tune up. My wife was trying to go up a hill in an old country road and the van did not just move right, after we left a friends house. To make a long story short she left the parking brake on. you might have a sticky wheel cylinder just or brake hardware.

You can do a compression test on the cylinders other than that I will leave more expert advise from the other guys here.

Here's what my dad used to do..

With the engine idling, pull off one spark plug wire at a time to hear if the engine drops rpm. If you pull one off and there is no change, it's not firing on that cylinder.

Joe

Ed,

What year 235 engine do you have? Does it have 2-nuts/bolts holding the valve cover on, or does it have 4 screws holding the valve cover on? You posted 93hp, indicating a low-pressure 235 (2-nuts/bolts holding the valve cover).

That 235 is much lower power than the 1954 and later 235s. The power difference would be very noticeable.

Yes, it is the older engine. I found the choke was 1/2 closed due to a bend in the cable and opened it up. It seemed to have a bit more power, but the plugs may still be fouled.

After you get the choke to shut/open properly, and after cleaning/setting the plugs, start and run the engine until warmed up.

Set the idle speed to around 500rpm (or a little less).

Then, if you have a vacuum gauge, set the carburetor mixture to maximum vacuum (and re-adjust idle speed, if necessary).
Then, adjust timing to maximum vacuum (and re-adjust idle speed, if necessary).

Have you set/checked the points?

After running the warmed up engine for 30 minutes, you might want to adjust the valves.

didnt the 46 1/2 ton only come with a 216? my 46 1/2 ton had the 216 in it, wouldnt the vin number tell what size motor it had from the factory??

There was a Vehicle serial number and an Engine serial number.
The Vehicle serial number indicates the size/series of the truck.
The engine serial number indicates what size truck the engine was in.

1946 engine information.

216 was the standard engine on trucks up to the 5000 series.

A 235 was standard on 5000 and 6000 series trucks (2-ton).

Ed is most likely referring to his 2-ton truck?

Yes, indeed, tcelderman, it is my 2-ton. After straightening out the choke cable (I do need to replace it), and driving it a bit, it seems to be putting out a bit more power. I am also getting used to driving with my foot a lot closer to the floor than I have it in my newer vehicles.