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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,154 Posts1,056,861 Members48,456 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 | Hello Stovebolt community, I have a few questions about this radio (model 986067, 1947-50).I'm in the stages of cleaning the inside and visually inspecting the unit.I'm also making a parts list for all of the wax paper capacitors as per the tech tip suggests. So as for the questions, here goes. #1. Where can I get a schematic/parts list for this model? I've downloaded the 986443, 1951-53 version from the Oldcarmanualproject but it seems a tad different from the one I have. #2. Where can I get a replacement power transformer to this radio? According to the manual from the 986443,1951-53 version, it would be part #7255881 Transformer-Power, visual #60.Square can looking thing. #3. If I'm replacing the transformer, should I convert it to 12v? I'm asking this due to the fact that there is water damage in that particular part. #4. The tip of the dial pointer broke off due to being brittle, I know they don't sell this item so what donor can I use? #5. The trickle charger, if someone can post a link or a unit number or brand that you are using please do so, that would be helpful to me (and others). I've read almost all posts in the radio forum and learned a lot, from parts suppliers to troubleshooting the radio but I'm asking these questions since the was no answers to them. I have not powered it up due to some slight water damage, so I want to do all repairs neccessary. From the posts, I see only a few that actually repaired their radios without sending them off to someone else and I want to be one of them, I want the satisfaction of bringing this radio to life. Thank you for reading this and thanks to all who have posted in this forum, I've learned a lot before asking a single question.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | JC49, I think you will get a lot of satisfaction rebuilding the radio yourself. We can help you out with problems and questions that arise. here are some answers to your questions: 1) The truck suppliers sell a manual that includes all the data and instructions for your radio. If you care not to purchase it I can send you copies of another published manual. 2) Normally it is almost impossible to find a new transformer. You should show me a photo of the water damage. Normally the transformers are quite hearty and there are some tests you can do to see if there are shorts. 3) When I convert it to 12 volts I install a transformer from a 12 volt Buick radio around the 1955 vintage. Personally I like to leave them 6 volts as original. 4) I use epoxy glue to replace the pointer. If you have a parts radio you can just snip the pointer off at the bend and glue it on to your radio. You may be able to find a suitable piece of plastic from somewhere that will work as a pointer. The entire arm is unique to that radio so finding a donor with a complete arm is really not an option. 5) I have used a battery charger that will supply up to around 6 to 8 amps at 6 volts. That is what I refer to as a trickle charger.
Feel free to ask as many questions as you want to.
Fred
Last edited by truckernix; 05/09/2013 10:22 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 | Thank you truckernix for you reply, i've read ALL of your posts in the Radio Forum and learned alot. I'm new to radio repair but I know the basics and can solder little items.Thank you for the offer on the schematic, but I will order one from the vendors just to be on the same page. Good tip on repairing the dial pointer, never thought of that. So what would be your approach on testing the transformer? Should i remove the vibrator and power it to see if i have power or test it with a Volt/Ohm meter and check for resistance? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I would start by removing the vibrator, all the tubes and making sure the on/off switch is off. Now measure the resistance between the two smaller pin sockets and ground. It should be fairly high. However a low reading does not necessarily mean a shorted transformer. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 | Thank you sir, I will measure the resistance this evening and post my findings. I will remove all the tubes and report anything out of the ordinary, thank you again. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | JC, I meant to comment on sources for your new dial pointer. When I have parts radios sitting around I just clip off a pointer. It occurred to me that something like a large clear plastic comb form a dollar store may yield an appropriate piece of plastic. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 | Ok, I did not test the resistance (Volt/Ohm meter needs a battery,will pick one up first thing in the morning), now I removed all the tubes and when I shake them, 2 of them rattle...possibly no good? The aluminum looking tube seems to be soldered and is this tube removable? Mr.truckernix when you say measure between the two smaller sockets and ground do you mean where the wires that come out of the can and onto the first tube?(I removed the cover and exposed a big capacitor) and on the other side of the can there is a post that is slightly exposed with a few wires solder to it? I know this sounds a little wierd, but i'm new to this. I'm going to order the schematic for this particular model and I will scan it and email it to (will send you a PM with my email, if you would like the copy for your library). You know I thought of a plastic fork for the tip but the comb sounds even better. Thank you sir for all the help so far. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The can that you took apart is the vibrator. Where it plugged into the chassis is the vibrator socket. Just leave it apart for now because it might need some attention when it gets tested.
It would be good to measure the resistance from each of the two small socket receptacles on the vibrator socket, to ground.
The large aluminum can which is soldered is permanently mounted and has three electrolytic capacitors in it. When you get your schematic diagram, I will point out which ones they are and how to replace them. By the way I have the schematic, thanks.
When you have your ohm meter working we will be able to check to see if the filaments in the tubes are working. They provide heat inside the tube to allow it to function.
Last edited by truckernix; 05/11/2013 6:13 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 | Here are my findings. I went from the two small sockets like you said, from socket to socket was 586.4 ohms and from socket to gound on both read 281.1 ohms each. I just oreder the schematic/service book for this unit so it will be a few days till i get it. From these finding is this too excessive? When my manual arrives I will let you know and you can tell me what tubes does what and test them. If there is something else you would like me to test in the meantime, i'm all ears. Thank you.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | We will work on that because there is a problem there. Would you like the diagrams now since you are going to purchase them? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 34 | I just sent you a PM with my email address, if you can kindly send it to me that'll be great. | | |
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