The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop '58 Chevy 235 - no oil to the top end

I recently bought a '58 Chevy pickup from the estate of a late friend. I had to pull the head because 5 of the intake valves were stuck from varnish, and 3 of the exhaust valve guides were shot. Exhaust was puffing out of the #2 exhaust valve spring. The engine has relatively low run time on a complete overhaul done in '97(which included new guides,I found the shop receipt in the glove box), but it wasn't getting a drop of oil to the top end, which explains the guide issue. It did register oil pressure on the gauge when I turned it over. The lifters are the correct solids with the chamfer in the middle to allow oil to flow past. I pulled the pan and timing cover and checked the oil pump pipes and pickup screen. All was well and very clean. I slid the cam out to check if the cam bearing was lined up with the oil hole correctly. I also pulled and inspected the oil pump. It looked like a new one inside. I also blew air through the oil line fitting in the block. So, I'm at a loss. Does anyone have any ideas on why the top end is dry on this thing?

here's a couple of thoughts and not sure if I am on the right path or not. Since the head was rebuilt was the head bolts the one with hole in it I am not sure of the application but if it does not have oil line behined the side cover those are the ones to use. Again since the head was rebuilt was correct rockers used? I know they changed the rockers oil passage I think in 58. Are the oil lines sealed and not picked up any air like losing the prime. Anyone please correct me if i am wrong about those ideas. Lastly if all the oil passages are clean and everything lined up was the correct level in the pan or was the dip stick the correct one. Thats all I can think of.

http://chev235guy.blogspot.com/search/label/Drilled%20Head%20Bolt

Good call TinyJaime. Maybe Pre '68 Dave will post on this topic. The 59-63 head/rocker-arm assemblies on 58 and earlier blocks require that drilled bolt. Without the bolt, no oil gets to the rocker-arm assemble (and, oil pressure reads OK).

First I would pull the center passenger side head bolt and see if oil comes out of there.
A stock 1958 235 should not need a drilled head bolt. With 1959-62 rockers oiling could be a problem.
I would suspect the 1/16" orifice used to restrict the amount of oil the rockers get is plugged.
Under the side cover at the center there is a 1/8" pipe plug. Under the plug you will find the restrictor.
If this restrictor is plugged, and you do not want to pull the side cover to check, a drilled head bolt will work in this case to redirect the oil flow. Be sure to read my blog on this first

I have the side cover off, along with the head, oil pan and timing cover. There's just a naked short block under the hood right now. I cranked the engine over with the starter after I removed the head, and no oil pumped up from the block, but pressure registered on the gauge. There is no line under the side cover, and the lifter holes in the block are cross drilled for oil flow. I ran a piece of filler rod down the oil hole in the top of the block and found no restriction. Blew air through it as well. The block casting # is 3738307 and is stamped FII25J. Crankshaft # is 3701488. I have another bare '58 block here and I think I'll drag it out this weekend and inspect it on the shop floor to see if it will give me any clues. I took some pics and I'll post them as soon as I figure out how to do it.

After blowing air through everything again, I replaced the tinwork, filled it with oil and started spinning the oil pump with my air drill. IT PUMPED OIL TO THE TOP OF THE BLOCK THIS TIME! It didn't shoot out like I had expected, it just oozed. That's a lot better than what I had, though. I had a spare #848 head that I took to the machine shop to freshen up. The stock head that I removed from this '58 was a # 913. The 848 had smaller combustion chambers, so maybe it will help it a little.

Thank you all for your input on this! I'll put up some pictures of this thing soon.

oozing is good

With cold oil it moves slow through a 1/16" orifice.
I think you will be OK.