The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 4spd Tranny installation

I had to replace the clutch, and I have the new clutch and pressure plate installed on the flywheel and attached to the engine. I tried my best to line the clutch in the center, but I am still unable to get it to mate to the transmission. Anyone have any tips?

You almost have to use a clutch alignment tool, when you install the clutch, either that or an input shaft from a junk transmission of the same (3 or 4 speed).
Best to make 2 "bolts" with the heads cut off and screw into the clutch housing, to help support the tranmission while installing. You may need to turn the out put shaft back or forward a bit to allow the splines on the tranmission input shaft to align with the splines in the center of the clutch disc.

John

can i get a clutch aligmnent tool locally? autozone etc..

I have a cheap one and it works great. It has a plastic cone that centers the disc.

I thought all clutch kits came with the plastic alignment tool included now

Bill

I don't know if they would have a clutch alignment tool you can buy or rent that would fit or not. Seems like Chevy used the same basic clutch for a long time.....
John

I had similar issues a few years back. The issues I had Dealt with were the centerline of all the parts, but also the tilt of the trans from front to back. Once that was resolved I had a slight issue getting the pilot bearing and the shaft on the trans to go together the rest of the way. I ended up putting an extremely light coat of high temp grease on the tip to get it to slide into the bearing.

Taking the two bolts and cutting the heads off to make guide pins for the trans are worth their weight in gold for me. Allows me to focus on alignment rather than lifting and alignment.

Good luck.

yeah all of the 6 bolt clutch kits came with a clutch alignment tool, but mine is a nine bolt and i had to order it all in pieces from chevsofthe40s...


Can you explain the bolts with the heads cut off a little better... how long should the bolts be? the tranny is only able to get like 4 inches away from the mounting holes due to the splines not lining up.

Assuming you can get things a little more lined up, I found bolts that had matching threads to the bell housing/trans mount. I made sure I could thread them in far enough by hand to support the trans. I then used a cut off wheel to cut the head off. I ground off the sharp edges and then threaded them into the bell housing. Then when I lift the trans, I hang it on the "studs" and slide it forward. If you cannot find an alignment tool, I have used a deep socket, as well as a Dowl rod before, just have to be careful. If I remember correctly, I put the throw out bearing in place and then had someone push the clutch while I lined up the components. Be careful! Best practice is to get the alignment tool, but I have made this work. I got the idea for the cut off bolts/studs from the 48-51 truck manual transmission install section.

One other thing, while you have the torque tube/drive shaft off, it is a good time to replace the torque tube seals and carrier bushing. Denny Graham has pics of the process. Parts are fairly inexpensive.

Let me get this straight. You are 4 in. away from it going in. If that is the case the pilot bush is not the problem. Did you check that the clutch disc fit the trans splines before you put it in? If you are sure the disc is right make sure the trans is at the same angle as the engine. You may have put it in gear & turn the rear shaft a little to get the splines to line up like Lightning said. If it goes in to about the last 1/2 in or so then you are not intering the pilot bush. If your linkage is hooked up pushing in the clutch pedal will allow it to go in.

i have seen them online at truckandcarshop.com

Harbor freight has a generic steel one but never used it just saw it hanging on the shelf.

I can tell you from experience make sure the pressure plate is in good condition (even if it is new/rebuilt, etc..) Make sure the tabs that hold it together are not loose or it will rattle and sound like a bad T/O bearing. Also, replace the pilot bearing/bushing..

I'm suprised you were able to find a pressure plate.

Good luck

Thanks for all the advice guys. We are going to try again here in a few days using a collection of everyones advice.