The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop brake line 101 question

Unfortunately I had a dad in the 70's that never let me touch his tools, so I guess I am using this site as a training ground for basic questions.

My brakes are mushy and I know there is air in there. I need to bleed them and wonder, is it as simple as removing the brake line running into wheel or do I have to get deeper into the brakes?

The manual talks about bleeding valves etc and I am a little (lots) lost

You don't remove the brake line.
That is what the bleeder valves are for.
If you haven't done this before, it would be better to have some help with someone that has. It's not that difficult, but it is easier with two people.
Your main objective is to force the air out of the brake lines,with the pressure of the brake fluid. One person pumps up the brake pedal and holds the pressure on the pedal, while the other person, opens the bleeder valve on the wheel cylinder.
Opening the valve allows the pressure of the brake fluid to push out the air from the line. Once the brake pedal goes to the floor after opening the bleeder valve, close the bleeder valve. During this process you will notice air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve.
You may have to do this several times, until you notice nothing but a good stream of fluid without air bubbles coming out of the valve.
During this time, you need to keep checking the master cylinder for fluid. You don't want to let the master cylinder run out of fluid, because then you will be reloading the lines with air.
You need to do this whole process on each wheel. Normally, you start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder. and then work the next furthest etc. etc.
I hope this helps. I may have left somethings out, and there are different ways to accomplish the same thing. Some of the other guys, will probably add to what I wrote.
I know one thing, I wouldn't want to be a technical writer. It's actually, easier to do the job, then it is writing how to do it.

where are you from buckeye? good to see another ohio bolter on the board

just to add something; if the bleeder screws are rusty (like mine were) be careful with them because they break easily. I had to drill one out of the wheel cylinder and it was a pain. :mad:

Hey Onetongmc,
From Columbus also. Email me sometime. (don't want the post here to get off the subject)

Always use a box end wrench to avoid rounding the bleeder bolts , whacking them dead on with a 32 Oz. ballpien hammer ofttimes shocks the rusty ones loose , avoiding the snapping off bit .

You should put a snug fitting hose over the bleeder nipple and dunk the other end in a clear jar (Pepsi bottle etc.) with 1/2" of brake fluid in it , then you can clearly see not only the bubbles but also when dirty brake fluid stops coming out the hose . I always bleed untill I get clean fluid after the bubbles stop .

Don't forget to safely prop up the truck on jack stands .

You'll need a quart or more of fresh fluid , NEVER
put the old fluid back in the master cylinder ! .