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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,080 Posts1,055,944 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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#93348 11/03/2005 1:57 AM | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 212 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 212 | I am having problems with my starter. I have a spare that I think is ok. I have had it apart and it looks decent. Good brushes, etc. I hooked it to my battery and it seemed to run strong. The gear that engages the ring gear on the fly wheel is badly worn. How do I get it off to replace it? Second question. The generator has 3 terminals. One marked field, one marked A, and a third one that I have been told is a ground. The wiring harnes has wires for the A terminal and the Field terminal, but I can't find anything for the ground. What do I do about that one? Just ground it to the nearest bolt on the motor or the frame? Some how that doesn't seem right. Thanks Allen | | |
#93349 11/03/2005 2:39 AM | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Allen,
The terminals on the voltage regulator are: BAT GEN FIELD (from left to right)
Someone will correct me, if I am wrong, but I think this is where the leads go:
BAT - to ammeter gauge then to the battery GEN - to generator FIELD - to generator
Tim | | |
#93350 11/03/2005 3:43 AM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,780 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,780 | That's right on the generator hookup. It's best to run a ground wire from the regulator base to the generator housing or a mount bolt as well as the others, to make sure it's properly grounded. Once the generator and regulator is wired, take a jumper wire and momentarily connect the Bat. terminal on the regulator the the Arm. terminal, half a second or so. This polarizes the generator.
To swap the starter drive, there's a snap ring on the shaft, retained by two washers. One washer has a counterbore, and needs to be tapped off the snap ring with a deep socket, or something similar. Then spread the snap ring and remove it, and swap the drive gear. Replace the counterbored washer, reinstall the snap ring, and use the outer washer and two pairs of pliers to snap the ring back inside the recess in the first washer. It sounds complicated, but once you get the gimmick, it's easy. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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#93351 11/10/2005 4:11 PM | Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 23 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 23 | I just replace my generator on my 48 chevy and it was an easy process. I did have a little problem getting the right size of belt to fit the pully's but with a little persistance it worked out. I got an alternator for $20 at the junk yard and a plug from the automotive shop that plugs in to the back of the alternator. The truck runs great and is a breeze to start in the winter.
You thought I drove a Ford! Where is my cresent wrench, I would like to adjust your thought pattern.
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#93352 11/13/2005 8:40 PM | Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 247 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 247 | The starter gear (and one way clutch) is called a Bendix. You have to disassemble the starter motor, remove the rear brushes and plate, and pull the rotor out. You may have to disconnect the solenoid and the solenoid bell crank to get the rotor out. The rotor shaft will have a clip that holds the Bendix on. Take that off and pull off the Bendix. | | |
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