The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline under floor dual master with power booster pics

Does anyone have master cylinder pics after they upgraded thier brakes. I have a 56 chevy 3100 with a 235 and 4spd. and wanted to see some pics of post installation or does any one have any advice or tricks on the install.

What I am doing is having my frame powder coated and i wanted to install the braket before and just wanted to make sure it was done correctly so I do not make a mistake after powder coating.

thanks in advance

Hey Tiny
Just put in the booster a few weeks ago, still working on some of the lines but almost done.
If I remember right I had to drill, just two 3/8 holes for the bracket that the booster is mounted on that attaches to the frame.
Also had to move the parking brake cable pulley back somewhat. Thats required to clear the booster, think it was about 6 or 8 inches, that required a few more holes. That's on my 55, 3200. Yours is probably the same.
Other than that it was a pretty easy install. If your like me you'll spend more time reinstalling and rerouting the brake lines.
Don't have any pictures for you right now, will try and get some for you tomorrow, unless someone beats me to it.

cool Big Jon H, i was wondering about the parking brake cable/pulley set up and i was curious if i had to remove the old bracket. the lines is not a problem, the instructions on the new setup was vague and no illustrations. i am going to install new brake lines i think it will be my weekend project. sure pics would be great i am more of a visual guy. thanks again

Well I hope these pictures help, at least they will give you an idea. Really its a simple install.
John

http://s1343.photobucket.com/user/J...amp;_suid=136492484653607040139355429202

Looks like a great install thanks for the pics it helps a lot.

I like the look of that but how do you check fluid levels/fill it?

Also is that for a drum/drum configuration or did you convert to disc?

Thanks in advance.

John

I can not answer for certain about big john setup but his photos looks like a disc/drum set up since he has a proportional valve. Mine will not have the proportional valve because my set up will be drum/drum. I will make an access through the floor to check the fluid. The good news is i installed the bracket today and after the powder coating the frame i will install the booster, mc and brake lines.

Thanks - Do you have any experience on the drum/drum setup vs the disc/drum?
I haven't driven a 54 in 30 years so my memory is fuzzy on the original braking ability. I am in the teardown stage though and now is the time to make a decision.
Just looking to get any feedback on workability of one or the other.
Thanks
John

My personal opinion is disk/drum setup is a very good set up. I chose to keep my drum/drum and try it out. I think if your building a powerful v-8 you may not have the stopping power really needed for a drum/drum set up. If you go with a disk on the front end becareful you get the lugs to match the rear for purposes of the spare tire. Plus if you go with disks you will have to change out the front bearings to a tappered bearing i think thats right. I decided to replace my entire braking system such as lines, shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware, and master cylinder. The master cylinder was changed becuse the original one had one reservoir and i wanted a 2 reservoir so if i leak i did not lose all my brakes only 1/2 of the brakes plus i found a good deal on ebay for a mc with a booster. These are just my thoughts. In the future i can always add a proportional valve and install disks. Right now i have bigger fish to fry. Good luck whatever you do.

The ebrake pulley has to be moved because the new unit will interfere with it. This then, creates a different angle of attack to the pull lever so a new hole is drilled into that lever and the cable is re-pinned. there are some minor other tweeks possible, I.E. trim the old pedal lever casting and maybe deburr here and there. But both times I did it, I had the body off so it was easy for me to install. The reservoir is filled with a curved snout bottle or cut a hole in floor and put in a door. You can get tricky and install a fill tube in cap and a remote reservoir on firewall. Use a cheap VW reservoir. Solder/weld/braze a nipple in cap. A drilled out metal tire stem may work. (no welding) (or if you are rich, they sell the remote fill caps)

Thanks - I am keeping the original 235 so I think I will stay with drums for now. Just updating the MC with booster should help, we'll see if it's enough.

John

If I weren't going with an IFS I'd do disc brakes mostly because I live in a fairly hilly area. I like feeling safer.

Update i just installed the booster bracket a few minor modifications and after my powder coating i will add the lines and finish the install. As a friend of mine says the piece of pie. Thanks guys easier than i thought. A picture is worth a 1000 words

Bigjonh - Any photos of the brake line routing? I have the same set-up but trying to figure out how brake lines run and what lines you have coming out of the proportioning valve. Thanks.

My install just wanted to post the final pics with the cab and bed off the frame.

Thanks for the help

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/stovebolt56/Brakes/2013-04-06_15-56-22_652_zps8cc1ad9a.jpg

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/stovebolt56/Brakes/2013-04-06_12-39-27_255_zps7855d336.jpg

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/stovebolt56/Brakes/2013-04-06_12-39-01_388_zpsc370bf91.jpg