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7 members (Otto Skorzeny, Tronman, Lightholder's Dad, LAROKE, Stovebolt48, tclederman, 1 invisible),
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robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,042 Posts1,055,511 Members48,424 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 177 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 177 | After I bough my truck I went through and re-built the wheel cylindres/master cylinder as well as run new brake lines. In the process I went through and tried to get the e-brake working properly.
I took the e-brake system apart and soaked the sheath and some PB-Blaster to get everything to loosen up. It ended up working and the e-brake was fully releasing.
Flash forward 6 months, and I went to put on new tires... and the my right rear e-brake is not fully releasing. I know the 1/2 and 3/4 tons have a different e-brake set up; so are there any vendors that carry replacements for a 1-ton, or is it just a matter of buying the other cables and making them work? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | I'm wondering if the problem might be in where the cable attach to the brake shoe. Have you removed the rear drums to check the shoes and make sure they are not frozen up, especially where the cable attach to the concentric adjustment bolt on the rear shoe?
When I did my brakes I used plenty of anti size on all the pivot points.
Just a thought....
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 177 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 177 | I have not taken the drums off, I will and see if that is the issue.
Last edited by Redlegs48; 03/31/2013 6:49 PM.
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