The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay fuel guage wiring.

if memory serves me right, the wire to the gas guage is hot in, ground to the tank, right? have the resistor to lower the 12 volts to 6, but have decided not to attempt to blow up the truck.........just yet.

also, does the charge meter need to be converted to 12 volts as well? i figure it does, but just asking.

trying to do away with aftermarket guages and use what is there, b ut all disconnected and ran to aftermarket guages.
thanks!

Hi there!

I have done a few 12v conversions and this is what i learned:
wire between tank sending unit only sends ohm resistance, the "feed" wire to the gas gauge needs to be dropped to 6v (use a ceramic inline ballast resistor or an electronical Circuit type 7806)
The electonic part is a bit hard to install (soldering required) but will provide 6v dead on, which will lead to a more accurate reading)

The charge meter does not care for 6 or 12v just wire it in on your 12v Circuit. (carefull though, if i recall correctly the charge meter originally provides current for gas gauge, instrument cluster bulbs etc)

no factory wiring left. just a rats nest of hillbilly rigging for me to deal with. have a resistor that more or less bolts in line, so i figure i'll run a hot from the box to the resistor, then thru the gage to the sender. still gotta figure out the amp though. thanks for the input.

ammeter doesn't care about volts, just amps .... BATT on the regulator to + on the ammeter, - on the ammeter to the battery terminal on the starter

Bill

alternator, later model starter.

still basically the same, output of alt to BATT post on starter, via the ammeter .... one wire or 3 wire alt might make a difference

Bill

If we are talking about an AD truck, the resistor needs to have a value of 30 ohms. A 2 watt resistor will be plenty large enough. That would not be a ceramic resistor.

This fuel gauge voltage reducer is reasonably priced, is reliable, does not need to be soldered, can only be attached one way to the power-input post on back of the fuel gauge (the input/output sides of the reducer are important).