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#925095 03/05/2013 7:16 PM
Joined: Feb 2013
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Getting the 57 6400 together.

The wiring to the electric shift motor is partially disconnected, possibly on purpose, possibly not.
Either way I'm going to have to get in there and deal with it.

Is there an online version (PDF or whatever) of the wiring schematic for the switch and motor wiring?
The plunger switch is present on the shifter, there's wiring to and fro, I just want the proper picture before I dig in.

Hopefully all is working in the mechanism, someone cross a finger for me...





-John

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John, here's an older post with some good photos that will probably help you out.
Look for Jugerfroch's post.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=750127

The two speed is fairly simple. Basically you supply 12v to the switch from a keyed source. (i used a relay to reduce the load on a 60 year old key switch) The switch sends 12v to one of two wires on the motor. When on low, 12v is also supplied to the speedometer adapter so that your speedo reads correctly no matter which gear the rear is in. I replaced all the wiring on mine with 12-3 copper ( think drop cord). You only need two of those wires to run the motor ( one high and one low) so I used the third to ground the motor case to battery ground. I know the switch and motor are available at NAPA and I think the switch wiring harness is too, though it's been quite a while since I bought one of those.

Scott


1947, 1950, & 1952 Chevrolet 1/2 ton
1952 GMC 450 series Cab Over Engine
1946 Chevrolet 2 Ton
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Again -- Thanks Scott for your help.

My speedometer isn't currently working. I haven't peeked under the dash yet, been occupied with the bare essentials.
That set of documents from Jugerfroch looks to be just what I was looking for.
I'll save them to my file folder for Lucille here, and peruse them later tonight.
Hopefully I'll be able to get things sorted out well enough to get it out for a date with the local Department of Motor Vehicles, to be fitted for a fresh set of license plates. With this rig I'll qualify for 'Old Timer' plates which qualify us for a smog exemption.
First I'll need insurance for it -- that'll be another process of discovery...






-John

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There are limit switches inside the motor mechanism to cut the motor off when the worm gear reaches the end of the stroke. A previous owner might have disconnected it for that reason. If it's still functional you'll want to check those to ensure it doesn't burn out the motor before you try it with the normal wiring.
What I did was hotwire the system with a lawnmower battery and a couple wires. Pull the cover plate off the shifter mechanism (good idea anyway, no telling how long it's been since it was cleaned and what's growing in there, mine was gummed up pretty bad), then apply 12V to the wires in turn, the motor should run to the end of the shifter stroke, then check that the power cuts out. Replace the cover, add light oil to the fill plug hole, and it should be good to go. Fix the wires, go out and have some fun. smile

Last edited by Freq2002; 03/05/2013 11:14 PM.

1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "
1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber"
2007 Chevy Avalanche
2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk,
2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI

I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things.
But thats just MY opinion!
:P
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Thanks again-

See this photo

undercarriage

I'm still not seeing where the two (dangling) wires next to the one which is attached (ground, apparently) are supposed to attach on the rear end.
I can't see any kind of wiring lugs or terminals.

Anyone have a photo of a properly wired shift motor?





-John

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Different motor than what I have, but that plate the ground(?) is connected to looks promising. Have you pulled that off to see if it covers the connections?


1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "
1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber"
2007 Chevy Avalanche
2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk,
2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI

I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things.
But thats just MY opinion!
:P
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 42
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 42
James-

Here's a couple images of the unit, at the cover near the ground wire.
Detail at cover
Slightly different view

I think I'll just have to remove the whole unit from the axle and see what's going on in there. I'll also have to test the switch and those dangling leads, I'm hoping to just see proper voltage at each wire at the two different shifter switch position.

Wish me luck!





`John

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That looks like where the connectors used to be. Unless someone else has one of those that can chime in, I'm guessing you will indeed need to pull the unit apart to reinstall the terminal bolts and insulators.


1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "
1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber"
2007 Chevy Avalanche
2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk,
2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI

I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things.
But thats just MY opinion!
:P

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