Planning on rebuilding my carburetor this weekend. I have a new kit for it, and was wanting to know if there were any trick secrets to reassembling it back together? This carb. leaked pretty bad so I didn't know if I should coat the main body and air horn gaskets with some vasilene or something? Thank you..
I just rebuilt mine and picked up my kit from napa, however i watched this video and it helpmed me a lot.
My model was a model b and one thing to be careful with is there a think 3 small ball like bb's one is aluminum and a steel ball the same size. I think my kit or the video says not to use the aluminum on the model b carb.
I think the most important thing is to clean it well and I used a gallon of berrymans that I purchased at walmart for 18 bucks while the FLAPS wer ten dollars higer. I would also get a can of silicone spray.
These are somethings that made mine easy since it was my first one also.
Lastly becareful with the little springs and balls if you drop one good luck in finding it.
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen
Dont put anything on the gsaskets. Make sure the power piston goes up & down freely & knocks the ball off its seat. Make sure there is a passage in the base gasket to go from the hole in the bottom of the carb to the intake manifold.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
Check the fit of the throttle shaft in the throttle body and do what you need to fix it. (People have different ideas on how and if this can be done and I'm not after an argument. I rebush the bodies).
The accel pump plunger shaft on my rebuild kits were different than the parts I removed. Different in length and in form. I ended up having to graft the old/new together to come up with a workable setup. This was a couple years ago, but as I recall the new style had a flat section with a slot. The originals were round with some retention detail on the end.
Say I wan't to thank you guys for a the advise that you sent me.Now heres what I have in the kit comes just 2 small BB's the larger 1 being steel and the smaller 1 is aluminum like you'd mentioned Tinyjamie. The 1 I pulled out of the carb is also aluminum and kind of pitted a bit and I'm almost betting that is why they don't wan't you to use it? As for the throttle shaft, those 2 tiny screws are a B---- to get out, not sure if I wan't to tackle that even though the shaft seems a little loose.Actually it looks like someone glued those screws in to keep from falling out. Even with those 2 blobs of probably JB weld the truck really run good at one time, anyway checking it out, I have rebuilt carbs, so I do know alittle bit about them. Thank you again..
Dont worry about the shafts. they wear very little on the B model carbs because They go a long way through the cast iron houseing. You are wise not to try to remove the screws. They will break off. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
WELL I don't really think my throttle shaft is really that bad, and another thing while I'm here,is there a gasket that goes above and below the 1/2" inch spacer block that bolts to the intake manifold? I believe it's phenolic or macarta.
Don't block off the hole in the bottom of the carb with a gasket between the spacer and the carb. If you put a gasket there make sure it has a hole in it that lines up with the one in the bottom of the carb. that port supplies manifold vacuum to the power piston, without the vacuum there it will run rich and toast your fuel mileage
