The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors headliner install ?

When installing a new head liner in a 51 truck Is it better to put the front piece of the two piece kit in first and work to the back of the cab or back to front instead. The kit i got from Ecklers had no install info in it. thank for any input.

First thing to do is make sure the kids and anyone else sensitive to foul language are not within earshot. I assembled the two pieces into the center support forming the cardboard to fit the bend in the support one at a time. I used blue masking tape on the back side of the cardboard to hold them in place on, the center support for assembly as a unit (I left the tape on as no one will ever know its still there). I then loosely screwed the rear support on to the rear of cab to allow the rear of the headliner to slide between the rear support and the top of the cab. That was where most of my cussing began. An extra pair of hands would have been helpful. From there you lift it up in the front and screw on the inner windshield surround. Again this part would be easier with an extra set of hands. Then you install the cab windlace, as this what holds up the sides of the headliner. Now if you do all of this and you have no gaps anywhere then you did better than me. These things have many compound curves in them which makes it hard to make them perfect. I doubt if the factory ones were perfect.

I just talked with one of our members a couple of weeks ago and
he was finding that the pattern was cut to small and was
leaving gaps. I've heard this before and I do have two sets of
uninstalled cardboard headliners here that, when laid in top of
each other don't match.

So the questions are, how many of you have run into miss-cut
replacement headliners, where did you get them and what did the
vendor say when you called to complain?????

Oh, and I might throw this in here also. The major problem with
installing these are that people try putting them in with the
windlace in place. The headliner was installed at the factory
first then the windlace was installed. Makes it a whole bunch
easier and you don't have a soggy piece of cardboard that warps
up on you when it dries out. For forty bucks you should replace
that tired-old-dried out-stiff windlace anyway.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

The pattern was off on the one I used

...click...

I purchased two, ruined the first one from classic parts
Second one from Tucker's, both patterns we're off.
Fixed the gap with a piece of remnant.
...click...

This was a few years ago, don't know if the patterns are the same today.

Installed windlass last.

Looks like a lot of (Jesus and a Christ-en) will be going on . Thanks again.

The pattern was off on mine as well. But as far as the installation goes, I found it easier for me to attach both panels to the center mount outside the truck. I had to make sure to crimp the bracket real good to keep the panels from sliding out as I put it in.

The first install I ever did involved a lot of swearing.

And every pattern seems to leave gaps. Why I don't know. Seems simple and that they'd rectify that. Just is...

My suggestion: The day BEFORE you need to install the headliner, paint some good quality glue into the center support. Install the headliner halves, and tape them into place. I recommend taping on the backside! Make sure the ends are even! Let it dry overnight.

The next day you essentially have a one piece headliner. I installed the front first, then tucked the sides, and then the rear.

I've had to drill pilot holes for the rear trim screws. No big deal.

Easier if you work with two electric drills or screwdrivers - one with a drill bit for pilot holes, the other with a philips head screw bit.

Good luck!

I like the one piece front to back fit as you go install.This way you are battling where you are and not falling apart in the middle needing more hands than you have .The glue is drying now. Thanks.

I just installed the cardboard headliner in my 1950 3100 Chevy truck. I got it from Classic Parts and it fit perfect; no cutting required. I would highly recommend using popsicle sticks under the front windshield gasket to hold the front section of the headliner in place while you are positioning it and using the window installation stick to pull the rubber back to push the headliner forward under the gasket. I used 10 popsicle sticks; 5 on each side evenly spaced. It made it so much easier than when I tried without them.

How long did it take to eat all those popsicles?

Only a day or two in this Texas heat ... 😉

I experienced a buckle on the front piece back lower corner when installing. No kids around when this happened! What to do. To cover it up I used some aluminum flashing I had laying around and fashioned some "trim" which I slid into the bow which was holding up the front section. I also slid it under the cab windlace. above the doors. I had to split it into two pieces to accept the geometry. It looks "trick" if I say so myself. The flashing in my opinion accents the dash and vice versa. I used some double sided tape to hold the front of the trim onto the headliner. The flashing is approximately 2 1/2 inches wide at the center of the cab and tapers down slightly above the door. Looks sharp in a black interior.

I let my headliner 'relax' for a couple of weeks before I installed it. That seemed to take most of the fight out of it. I've been collecting interior parts for about five years now. The fitment is pretty good, so next year I can take it all apart and paint it. I would like to find some Phillips head, stainless steel, 10-32 by 1/2" upper wind lace screws though. I have some chrome ones that I purchased from one of our vendors, but they're slotted machine screws. I'll see if Fastenal has them in stock.

Andy,
You should have no trouble locating the screws.

Harold

Thanks Harold!

I did notice that the slotted screws I purchased are tapered. I would think regular Phillips head machine screws will work. It just might take a little more effort to get them started......

Check McMaster-Carr website.

They have a good variety of Phillips head, 10-32 X 1/2" machine screws; however, I'm not finding them tapered.

What do you mean by "tapered"? Are you looking for oval head phillips screws? Oval head is conical on the bottom side and domed on top, which is what is typically used for trim stuff. If you're looking for sheet metal screws, those are available as well. Machine threads are not tapered at the tip, but sheet metal screws are.
Sample

They are the Upper Windlace Retainer Screws.

Here's one from Classic Truck Parts and an original.

AH! Self tapping machine screws.
If you're not needing them for cutting threads, plain machine thread screws should work fine. When starting blunt end screws in existing holes, just turn them backwards until you feel the threads engage.
Or these may work for you. The head might be slightly different than your original.

Thanks Kevin, I'll give these a closer look.

The slotted screw on the left is a pan head. Looks like a Type F self tapping screw.

The Phillips on the right, may be a fillister head?