So will I eliminate the green wire that is in the pic, and the resistor, and use the brown wire that goes to the resistor to power this switched 12v supply? Or will I just jump off the brown wire?
Your starter does not have an "S" terminal. The smaller terminal sticking out is to provide cranking voltage to the coil while the starter is engaged, then power routes through the ignition switch and ballast resistor once running.
You should take the ballast resistor out of the equation and have switched 12 volts to the coil since battery voltage will be provided through the ignition switch.
You will not need the bypass wire from the starter to the plus side of the coil, but it won't hurt to leave it in place.
The larger wire on the bigger terminal should feed into your amp gauge and then to ignition switch and is where it needs to be. If it is brown (hard for me to tell) then leave it there and put the batter cable with it.
That makes sense. Sorry about the confusion regarding the color of the wires. The other wire on the side terminal is purple and is for the starter motor switch the neutral safety switch, which I don't have because it is a manual. The brown wire I was referring to is the one that comes out of one side of the resistor and runs to the ignition switch. The other side of the resistor is dark green and also runs to the ignition switch, then from the ignition switch to the bypass and the original plus side of the coil. My question is, if I am eliminating the resistor, which wire will I be running as switched positive, the dark green or the brown? Or does it matter?
What ignition switch are you using? Especially if you are keeping the foot starter? Should just need the stock 6 cylinder ignition switch. If you are using an ignition switch mounted on a later model steering column then you won't need the purple wire as you will be activating the starter with your foot.
On most gm vehicles with an automatic the purple wire goes from the start position on the ignition switch, to the neutral safety switch and then to "S" terminal on the starter. On a vehicle with a manual transmission the purple wire goes from the ignition switch, to the clutch safety switch, then to the "S" terminal on the starter.
Since yours is a foot activated starter, the purple wire does nothing. So removing it from your ignition switch won't hurt as it doesn't do anything even when connected to the side terminal. So you can remove it.
You should not have any part of the EFI system powered directly from the trucks wiring. You should use relays as shown in the PDF and the wire from the ignition switch that used to go to the ballast resistor simply energizes the relays.
The timing is set, so that's good to go. I need to get the down pipe in so I can hook up the O2 sensor. My K&N air filter should be here soon, and my battery is charged. Add a few other odds and ends and I should be able to fire it up soon, hypothetically at least.
I think I answered the question from my previous post, but can anyone confirm that the wire from the distributor pickup goes to the "P" connection of the ICM, and the black wire goes to the "N" connection. Is that right?
I ws thinking about the distributor phasing and was wondering if I set it correctly. Which direction do our distributors spin, clockwise or counter clockwise?
Kevin, I don't get on here all the time but as you know the answers are also on the binderplanet.com
from a quick search here.....
Quote
Re: Distributor and firing Order problems on a 216 [Re: 3B] Pete52 Shop Shark
Registered: Tue Jan 06 2009 04:40 PM Posts: 1508 Loc: melrose pk. il. 1- remove #1 spark plug 2- turn engine over by hand ,with youre finger over the hole when you feel air pushing out 3- take a flash light and look at timing hole in bell housing 4- turn engine SLOWLY untill you see the triangle on the fly wheel 5- line up triangle to the pointer on bell housing 6- install disy so that rotor is pointed in a 12 oclock position you may have to move the oil pump alittle one way or the other use a screw driver 7- install disy cap and install #1 plug wire at the 12 oclock position 8- install all the other spark plug wires in a clock wise order 1-5-3-6-2-4- 1 being front and 6 being the last one 9- it should start you are going to have to set the timing with a timing light to the ball on the fly wheel after you get it started
Put an ad in parts wanted 216 disy's are out there.
Pete
Edited by Pete52 (Thu Jul 15 2010 02:42 AM)
With the distr rotating clockwise you should have the white wire to N-neg and the blk wire to P-pos. BUT...I have ran across a couple pickups that were wired backwards. To verify simply set the engine to TDC #1 ensure the reluctor wheel is lined up with the pick up and the rotor is just past the cap terminal, then open the timing bypass connector so the computer does not affect timing, connect light to #1 and crank over the engine. If the timing is within a couple degrees of 0 then your good. If it's 15-20 off then the wires are reversed. Do not move the distributor, simply swap the wires from P and n and crank the engine again. Only one way will be correct.
For your phasing it will be just as shown on the binderplanet. The rotor trailing edge should be lined up with the trailing edge of the cap terminal. That means it will be retarded and as the computer advances the timing it will sweep across the cap terminal.
Thanks Bill, i read through all the info which I believe I understand. What threw me was the rotation of the distributor. The conversion I followed was the one that you linked here a little while back. I set my phasing according to what that said. What struck me the other day was that that particular distributor rotated counter clock wise and I believe mine rotates clockwise in which case I would have my phasing backwards and would need to correct the phasing.
The '59 Operators Manual calls for "Light Engine Oil" in the generator oil caps. > Description > Diagram
I use 20w 3-in-1
- Lonnie My '54 3104 Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.
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Big day yesterday, I got it fired up! Now I need to explain that the install is not totally done. The timing was set before it was started, but not after, so I need to adjust for that. The MAP sensor needs to be connected, as does the SES light, and VSS. I need to adjust the idle and the TPS. But by golly, it runs! Check it out:
I must admit, I was so excited I drove it around the block. You may notice that there are no seats in the cab in the video, so I just set one in there to sit on. Not the safest, I know, but I was going like 5 miles per hour and there was no one around. Oh, and I had no brakes. I won't be going out again until I knock those out, but it was pretty fun. I hadn't driven it in 1.5 years. Anyways, here are some pics:
Now I after I got back from my little "spin" I parked it in the driveway. Later I went to put it back in the garage, stepped on the starting pedal, and nothing. No click, no nothing from the starter. All gauges and power was on, but the foot button did nothing. I am wondering if something disconnected inside the starter while I was driving. I will pull it and see what is going on.
You have your video marked private so can't see it.
The system will operate with any sensor bad but the map and temp are the 2 main sensors. TPS helps to smooth it out. With a good tune you don't even need the O2 sensor...till the weather changes.
With the GM TBI system the only 2 parts that will kill it are the fuel pump and ignition module. And even the module has a limphome mode if it doesn't receive a timing signal from the ECM.
Refer back to the binderplanet parts required FAQ. There's only one map sensor connection and that's the port between the fuel lines. Since your throttle body is mounted backwards...it's now on the front.
I pulled the starter yesterday. The contacts inside the push button switch were all corroded. I have a new one on the way. I also connected the MAP sensor, so that's dialed in.
Now to pull and rebuild the brake master cylinder...
It's not that bad once you get over the initial fear of electronics/wiring. Some points and carb guys just can't convert even tho most have a modern car in the driveway and will hop in and drive it anywhere. this just makes our old rigs modern daily drivers.
It's all laid out step by step in the injection forum on the Binderplanet.com It allows you to add EFI to just about any gas engine.
Binder Planet, I think I was on that site. Is it all about International vehicles?? I was looking for stuff about a mid 60's 3/4 ton I'd seen for sale. I have a Holley Pro Injection 1 barrel TB I want to put on my 235 when it is done. It is made to work with the Chevy 250, 292, Ford 300 and Jeep 258 engines. It is pretty much stand alone setup.
The Binderplanet is an IH-Cornbinder site. The injection forum covers installing the GM TBI system on just about any engine made. I'm not familiar with the Holley 1 barrel projection but have had a lot of experience trying to get the Holley projections working properly. I sold them just like the other guys on ebay and went with all GM factory TBI parts. They work right and last a long time.
The IH inline 6 is almost identical to the GM. Infact Almost all 1 bbl 4/6/8 manifolds have either the standard small or large bolt and bore pattern so they all interchange. I have developed the adapters for both to use a 2bbl throttle body and I also have a 1bbl adapter to use the GM 2.5/3.1 1bbl TBI on the inlines.
The delco distr used has already been discussed and I have a complete write posted there that Kevin used to modify his for this project.
There is no reall engine or brand specific application. the system doesn't care what engine it is bolted on and it doesn't know. It's all in the chip tuning once it's installed that makes the difference.
So forget about whatmake of vehicle we may be discussing and just apply the information to yours.
Here is a direct link to the EFI FAQ's-frequently asked questions. It covers every thing by topic from the wiring to the parts required to the distr conversions and there's even a junkyard shopping list you can print out and take with you.
I got a good deal on the Pro Injection setup. It was for sale, still in the box, with the shrink wrap on it for 150 bucks. I think originally they sold for 600 or so. I figure it was cheap because it was discontinued..... I'll have to go to yuor link and do some studying on it.
Turns out the starter needed a new armature, so I have an electric motor shop working on that and a rebuild while they are at it. My seat is bolted down and my new master cylinder is installed and the brakes are bled. I have even finished installing my door glass and weatherstripping.
Once the starter is done I will be able to drive it around, although I will have a few odds and ends to work out.
My list:
headliner molding (any tricks for this?) hood to cowl seal (tricks for this?) engine timing build a flatbed wheels and tires passenger seat bracket and a few other things
Getting very close. I will upload some pictures soon.
