The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Frozen Brake

Morning all, first post.

Just bought a 51 3800. It had been sitting since 97. Got the motor running well, bled brakes with the exception of LF wheel as I couldn't get the bleeder to turn. Pedal is rock hard. Almost seems too hard-there is zero free pedal at the top.

Drove it around the section. All seemed good. Went around again. Still everything seemed good. Drove seven miles to town for gas. Brakes had started to drag so I went home and jacked it up again. Bled again. Rears aren't dragging at all now. This time I at least cracked open the rubber line at the LF and got some air but then both fronts were locked tight.

Adjusted the brake adjuster on the LF and it no longer drags so I got three good wheels. The adjuster on the RF will not move at all. Wheel is locked tight. I did plasma cut a hole in the backing plate to get a better look. I can always weld that section back in. In any case, drums are like new, no rust, no grooves. I do know the previous owner had all four cylinders rebuilt in 92 and he put about 1,000 miles on it between 92 and 97.

Adjuster is completely frozen and the shoes are tight. Any thoughts? After working on it I thought maybe I could loosen the bleeder or rubber line and pry back the piston into the cylinder to at least get the wheel to turn and I can at least get the drum off. As it is now, no way to get the drum off with the shoes tight. I cut a silver dollar sized hole with the brake adjuster slot in the middle of it so I could pry the adjuster back into the cylinder if you think it might work.

I'm kind of winging it here so any help would be appreciated.

Its possible somebody put a left adjuster on the right wheel at the rebuild, try turning it the other way. If that doesnt work you may have to cut it in half to get it apart and go from there.

I did try both ways. When I cut the hole in the backing plate I can actually see the threads so I knew which way it needed to turn. It just won't budge. I may have to go the "cut off" route. It's been soaking in Kroil overnight.

Welcome to the Bolt to a fellow 1 tonner.
Have you tried 3 long pry bars at 10 o clock, 2 o clock and 6 oclock and a BFH? Drive them down in there they should start moving. If drum has no lip and you can get them to start moving , they should come off. Don't forget the 2 screws holding drum on. Why not cut the rubber hose to relieve the pressure on that wheel cyl, you will want to replace ALL Rubber hoses any way. Good Luck, I'll keep thinking back to when I redid my 3800 brakes. Jerry

Well one thing for sure, you can't buy those drums new so they are precious. How about unbolting the wheel cylinder and maybe see if you can push it in.

I did get the adjuster to finally move once I decided that it was a sacrificial part and pried on it hard. Got it loose, got the drum off and the return spring fell out in three pieces.

Wheel cylinder pistons were stuck so instead of rebuild kits I just popped for two new cylinders and return springs. Hope they are in by the weekend.

Drums are perfect, shoes look new. Supposedly the PO had refurbished the brakes in 92 and I know he only put 1000 miles on it from the time he titled it in 92 and 97 when last licensed.

I had a brake locking problem on mine, I would adjust the brakes then go for a ride when I got back they were always tight. My problem was a plugged vent hole in the master cylinder.