The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Steering Wheel Removal

As usual, I have managed to turn a simple task into a major production. I am attempting to remove the steering wheel to replace the turn signal canceling plate. I am using a heavy duty puller with lots of pressure applied and it still won't come off. I have tried spraying the shaft splines with PB Blaster and letting it set for a couple of days with pressure on it. I even briefly tried the impact wrench on the puller, all to no avail. Does anyone have any suggestions how I can complete this most simple of tasks?

Thanks,

Steve

well, first off, it ain't simple if ya can't do it.

you own a hammer? i mean a HAMMER! no sissy tack hammer or one of those cheap azz flea market $1.99 so-called hammers. i'm talkin' about a serious MAN hammer here.

so............. tighten the puller as much as you can, then, on the end or top of the puller where you tighten the gizmo, you take your gold plated instrument of death, and.........

WHAM. man that felt GOOD! WHAM, why you son of a.... WHAM, WHAM, WHAM!

check the tightness of the puller and give it another half turn of so, and then............

WHAM! dirty stinkin' WHAM, WHAM, WHAM!

eventually the steering wheel will simply pop loose.

THEN..........

that damned neighbors cat just peed in the flower bed again..

WHAM, WHAM, WHAM!

there................... nice kitty......

I've never had to abuse one that much. Get her pretty snug and a moderate rap with a BFH should pop her loose.

amen

Thanks everyone. It sounds like I just didn't hit it with enough force. I'm usually reluctant to start pounding on a mechanical part. I tend to try and remove things the way they were designed to be removed. After being assembled for 54 years I guess everything is reluctant to come apart.

I'll try the hammer with more force and let you know how it turns out. i need to get this steering wheel thing done so I can move on to rewiring and installing a new instrument cluster.

Thanks again,

Steve

I've grabbed both sides of the wheel and pull while a helper tapped the nut. Leave the nut on loosely. It may save your teeth. Don't ask how I know. Have fun and good luck

Dan

I had a really tough one once so I spayed Kroil penetrant on the splined area and let it sit overnight. That did the trick, next day the puller popped it right off.

My dad used to losen the nut, then draw his knees up under the wheel and hit the nut with the handle end of a baseball bat. 2 or 3 taps and it was off. For as many times as I watched him do it, I never could learn the technique. He'd get a good chuckle when I'd give up and get out the puller.

That's the way I did it for a lot of years until I got old enough that the knees stopped cooperating.

no wham? i mean, none? moderate rap? no dead cat? on man, i'm disappointed. heartbroken in fact.

(actually, i figured it would pop the first time or two he whacked the thing, but i like typing WHAM, and i hate cats).

At this point I have sprayed it with PB Blaster, let it set overnight, rapped it, tapped it, and whammed it repeatedly with a big hammer. Still stuck tight. No dead cat though.

Try a heat gun becareful not to burn the plastic, someone could have locktited it.

I'm not impressed with PB Blaster. I use a product called Knock R Loose I get it at a Hose supply. That stuff works!
Just my 2cents
Bill

Have seen many a thread with home made penetrate. 50/50 ATF & acetone was one of the leading contenders. If locktie was used, this might help. Heck I'd 'dribble' 100% acetone in there to start with. But be careful because of its flammability. An don't get any on your paint and plastics.