The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Disc Brake Install questions

Hi All,

So I am in the middle of a POL 6-lug disc brake conversion on my 3100 1950. A couple observations and questions. The adapter ring supplied, the countersunk holes do not line up with the treaded holes on the rotor/hub. I called POL to inquire about this and they acted very surprised. I believe this is a well documented problem. They said that the pattern is not symetric and keep rotating the adapter ring until the holes line up. Of course, that did not work. I think I will drill new holes but I think it is a very expensive kit to have the parts not work well.
Tonight I managed to get the assembly together and mount the stock 16" wheel. A few questions:

1. The caliper bold flange is rubbing on the inside of the wheel. I believe some people have to grind the inside of the wheel. I will do that too but wonder if I use a 1/4" adapter ring instead of the 3/16" adapter ring if I can minimize the amount I need to grind of the wheel and caliper. Has anyone done this and is there any harm pushing out the wheel further?

2. The original bolts that mounted the drum assy to the spindle were 9/16". The new bolts that came with the kit were 9/16 for the top of the bracket and 1/2" for the bottom. This requires drilling out the spindle but also the steering components to 1/2" Is there any reason why one could not continue to use the 9/16" bolts?

Thanks,
Skipper

You grind the caliper, not the wheel. If you elect to use a spacer (which I have) you need to replace the studs to longer studs so you fill the lugs nuts.

I'm using a 1/4 spacer with the kit.
Had to do it for a diffrent reason than what your describing.
No issues, but did have to use longer studs.

I drilled for the larger bolt. I believe the hole in the bracket plate it drilled out for the larger bolt.

Guys,

Thanks for the suggestions. I shimmed the adapter plate with 1/16" aluminum to push out the adapter farther out for a fit check. This combined with grinding a bit on the capliper gave me enough clearance. I need to make a new adapter plate about .300" thick or make a .125" shim to add to the current supplied adapter.
Also, with the the wheel pushed out further, my lug nuts are flush with the stud. still debating whether I should replace all the studs. I think the supplied ones are 3/4" of thread perhaps go with 1" thread length.

I had to go with a larger diameter stud the get the length needed with the adapter.
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Do you recall what the part number is for the stud you used? The one that was shipped in my kit was a Dorman 610-179. The next size up is the 610-130, which is only about an 1/8" longer. I would like one atleast 1/4 - 1/2" longer.
I would have to move up to an 1/2 size stud to find a longer one. I am going to look into perhaps another brand othe than Dorman.

rc356 did you buy a kit or are you doing this with parts from diffrent places? If it is a kit my question is, if I am going to spend the kind of money they want to a disk brake kit for my 47 3100 is there a kit that you do not have jack around with? Is this a POL issue or are all of them like POL. I can see having to have longer studs but why are they not in the kit? Any of you did this without the trouble rc356 is having?

Yes, I am using a POL kit. What I have researched on this forum is that any kit from any vendor will require reworking the parts provided. It is discouraging that the kit are so expensive and so much rework is required. POL did provide longer studs but not long enough. The studs they provide, my lug nuts are flush with the studs. Since I have to add a thicker adapter plate, the studs now need to be longer to fit the lug nuts correctly.
It has been difficult sourcing longer studs because the studs provided are of a different style from the original. The new studs have a longer shoulder, this is necessary because of the addition of the disc rotor.

Skipper

Check out Buffalo

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I have not used them so cannot testify