The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors More Heater Questions

Im in the process of rebuilding the Heater/Defroster unit from my '54 Chevy, the basic Airflow type. While dismantling it there were two strips of an insulation type material attached on either side of the heater core. They were about 1" wide and ran the length of the core.

What was the purpose of these strips? When i go to reassemble the unit are these strips something i should try to replace/replicate or are they unnecessary?

There are pics on my blog site, just click on the link in my signature. If you click on the pictures, they will get a bit bigger too.

Thanks,

Chooglin

they look like something to direct air through the fins of the core while also holding the core secure... as in packing material keeps things from bouncing/rattling around secure. I'd replace it with a similar functioning material. (that won't off gas when warm)

Any suggestions as to a type of material that wont off gas? Im not too familiar with insulation.
Also what type of adhesive would i use to attach it? I assume that would need to be a type that wouldn't off gas as well?

Chooglin

The fiber glass won't off gas... I think it's more about directing airflow than insulating for warmth... sound on the other hand may factor in. Use an adhesive that doesn't melt your foam if you use foam as a replacement otherwise I'd think something that's stable (doesn't soften up and loose it's adhesion) when heated would be my main concern. Most any auto adhesive should work.

Much thanks CASO ill be heading to the store this week and keep yall posted as to what i end up with.

Chooglin

So got to the store today and think i found something that should work. Picked up some fiberglass pipe insulation which looks about the same. Only came in one size though so i now have enough to do the next 100 or so heaters i come across

Havent picked up any adhesive yet but its next on the list.

Anyone know of a source for the rubber gasket that seals the heater door to the body of the heater when the door isnt open into the cavity of the truck where the vent is?

Chooglin

A leak inside the case could be absorbed by the fiberglass and lead to rust. (Don't know for sure, but just seems likely) The insulation was missing from my heater when I rebuilt it. I didn't use any in the heater. In fact, I didn't know it was supposed to have the insulation until I read about it on Stovebolt.

I don't know of a source for the rubber gasket. May need to cut one from bulk rubber. Perhaps someone who has the heater out of their truck can trace a pattern for you if yours is missing.

Keep plugging away. I enjoy your build info and refer to it for help with my '54.

Thanks for the kind word Lonnie.
Im a little skeptical on the insulation myself, though there didnt seem to be any rust around the general area. Whatever adhesive was used originally was pretty tar like and covered a good area on either side of the insulation.
You said you had rebuilt yours without it, have you had any problems with leaks or vibration etc? Thinkin i might just scratch that whole step...

As to the gasket i have half of my original one, and after a pretty exhaustive search through parts sites yesterday im thinking a homemade one is in order, its pretty much just a rectangle with a little lip around the outside edge so it shouldnt be too hard to fab up. Ill post some pics when im done.

Chooglin

If you can find some plastic packing foam it is great stuff for something like this. Computers come boxed with it often. I'm not talking about styrene. This stuff is more like polyethylene but expanded into a foam. Easy to cut, compresses some, won't squeak, and doesn't absorb water.

I have some if you can't find local.

Chooglin -

Nope - no problems with noise or vibration. The truck was converted to 12v, so I installed a 12v motor from a 60 Chev Impala and it spins faster than the original 6v motor. Still has the original squirrel cage from the 6v motor. 'Course I live in Central Florida, so I don't run it very often.

Yes, I have a leak that occationally dribbles a few drops on the floor mat. I haven't pulled the heater yet to investigate. My gut feel says that I have two problems:
1) a leak in the core or a leak at the inlet/outlet pipes (one has a crease in it)
2) plus the Ranco valve may be defective. If it randomly opens, then it could be sending water to the leaking core or pipes.
Won't know for sure until I open it up.

I used expanding foam insulation around my heater core and it worked great. I know it's not OEM but no one's going to see the inside of the heater anyway, and it just needs to work.

After much deliberation and after reading Lonnies post, i decided to go without the piece of insulation for the time being.
Seemed like itd be a big gluey mess to try to put in so i think ill put the heater back in the truck sans insulation and run it for a little while and see if there are any problems.

On another note...

Just got my RANCO type heater adjuster module thing back from classicparts where i had them rebuild it. They did a really nice job of it and looks like they sandblasted the whole deal too.

1) I know that it originally was unpainted but am curious if you guys think i could get away with painting just the outside of it (which is actually on the inside of the truck) to help protect the metal some. This would be after a severe masking job to protect all the nice new bits and pieces.

2) I also have the original heater switch that was in the truck that i would like to reuse if possible. Havent got a chance to hook it up to see if the fuses etc. on the back are any good but... if it does work will i need a voltage reducer?

I noticed this topic was touched on a little while ago in another thread which got me thinking but it didnt get much coverage...
I also remember reading about someone rigging up this style switch for show and having a more modern one concealed under the dash actually hooked to the heater. I suppose thats an option but i really like trying to use all original hardware etc.

Pictures of the RANCO module and the heater switch im talking about should be in my blog, just click the link in my signature.

Thanks all for the help and suggestions,

Chooglin

The heater switch will work on 12 or 6 volt if it is in decent shape. They can get very hot when in use so the insulator and material covering needs to be complete. It is Lonnie who runs the original/concealed switch set-up.

Running a voltage reducer to the switch should keep it a little cooler though ya?

Is there any way to repair them if the insulation etc. is questionable?

Chooglin

I don't think another reducer is the answer? I would guess they are coated with a ceramic so if there is a brush able material maybe, never heard of anyone doing it on here? The originals NOS are not cheap but that is what I am using. I run a recirculating heater with a 12-volt motor and the original switch.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129058879/in/set-72157631867396207

http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129352382/in/set-72157631868452754

I rebuild alot of these Deluxe Heaters & never have I found insulation in them. I have a manual on them as well & doesn't show or mention anything about the insulation. My guess is someone put a new heater core in the unit at one point in time & added the insulation. Food for thought, enjoy