The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1950 Rochester B Carb Throttle

I'm in the mist of rebuilding my 1950 chevy. I'm now tackling the Rochester Carb, when I got this truck both choke and throttle cables were detached from carb. I know where the choke cable goes but could someone out there send me a picture as to where the Throttle cable attaches to the carb, thanks

The vertical cable is the throttle cable, the horizontal one is
the choke cable:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/137737843
This is a 1950, 216 with a Carter W-1 but it's the same cable
setup as the Rochester B carb. The throttle wire is routed thru
the hole in the vertical throttle link and that is all that is
the only retainer for that link. It has a brass stop at the end
of the wire that is shown in the picture.
DG

wow,that clears it up, it's the brass stop that's missing I'll get one and hook it up thanks

Denny,

I had the -pleasure?- of working on a 41 Ford that came into our shop. I was quite dismayed when I went to remove the carburetor. Their linkages are TONS better than the GM setup! I've always thought that brass stop on the bare wire was a terrible system. The Ford easy-off rod system seems far superior. At least, until you want to switch to another carb, maybe . . .

Just my thought, anyway. Love my stovebolts, but they didn't ALWAYS get it right . . .

-Michael

Yep, it does look like a half-arsed setup, but........it's
worked for 75 years and I've never heard of one failing. And I
asked when I first saw it.

DG

Nothing wrong with a terrible system that lasts that long (and is so easy to connect and disconnect).

Thanks for the picture it really help to show where the throttle cable mounts. I do have one other question: I can't see how it's set up on the back side of the carb... are there two pin holes in the gas rod linkage (one hole used for the trottle cable inner wire and the other hole used for a cotter pin to keep linkage attached to carb). My truck has one hole only and there was a cotter pin present to keep linkage at carb together. The throttle cable was cut off and not used so I'm not certain. Plus the 216 engine was replaced with a 235 so things have change a bit. If there is only one hole then I assume no cotter pin is needed because the Throttle wire will keep linkage together, right???

The throttle cable 'IS' the pin that holds the rod on the
throttle arm of the carb. I know it sounds real half arsed but
again, it is the way they designed it and it is the way they
worked for decades without a problem.
The throttel wire just slides free in the hole.
This shows the wire on the front side of the arm:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/116251444
Your welcome to look thru the album, just hit the
previous or next buttons to view the other pictures.
Or try this to see them all at once:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/1950_fuel__exhaust&page=all
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, thanks that really clears it up, I also notices that I believe you have two fuel filters one at the fuel pump and the other near the carb. Mine is also set that way except I have the plastic bowl near the carb. Why two filters? Wasn't that dangerous to have a fuel filter near the engine manifold?

The screen on the fuel pump will only trap the larger particles, the paper filter right
before the carburetor catches the fines. The location is where the original GM accessory
filter would have been placed.
As far as safety in that location, people didn't analyze and fret over every little detail of
life back in those days. The lawyers had yet to take over our lives litigating the smallest
discrepancy for their profit.
I've never seen a problem with the filter in that location unless you slammed into it with a
big old wrench, and common sense should have told you that the engine shouldn't be hot
when changing the filter.

Very common to these half-century plus old trucks is rust in the fuel tanks. Because of
this I've also installed a glass pre-filter a foot or so from the fuel tank outlet, you can see
here how much this helps clean the fuel before it reaches the fuel pump:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/141360697

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

DJRoy

The second "fuel filter" that you saw in Denny's first pictures may actually be the glass bowl fuel pump. It has a strainer in it.
> CLICK - Glass bowl fuel pump drawing
> CLICK - Glass bowl filter and pump video

Denny, Once again thanks for the info I really appreciate it and it explains why there's two filters and it makes sense, I will leave both in. I'm amazed at the other inline filter is that actual rust inside the glass? After your pics and info I hooked up my throttle cable now I've got the problem of my accelerator spring pulling back my trottle cable close when I release it (it doesn't stay pulled out at the dash, too much tension). This truck was upgraded from a 216 to a 235 and they attached a spring to the exhaust manifold using a hose clamp which serves as the accelerator return spring for the gas pedal and it's a heavy duty spring and most likely the wrong one. I've done a bit of reading on it and my mechanics book doesn't really say or show much but didn't the spring originally attach itself to the gas pedal linkage at one end and the other to a mounting bracket that was bolted somewhere on the oil pan? Again these might be "no brainer" questions to someone who's seen this set up over and over but for me it's all guess work. I do have a vague idea but if I'm right, do you have any pics on how that's set up??

Not a very clear picture but it does show the spring attched to
the throttle rod:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/148883280
This one is much better, but only shows the tab that is under
one of the pan screws.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/139630254
This one is a drawing of the tab that is under that screw.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136543295

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks for the pics it looks like my "swivel" bracket that bolts to the engine where the gas pedal rod and carb linkage connect has been modified. I also don't have that "clip" where the spring mounts to on the carb rod. I'll see if I can get my hands on a used one or will have to make one up. I do have the bracket that fastens to the oil pan.

Going to use this Throttle and Choke cable pic to reference my connections at the cables. Thanks

Kevin 1952 235 1/2Ton

If you find the brass stop difficult to find, and you happen to enjoy fishing, a split shot sinker crimped to the wire....

Denny, whereas the Ford system looks better, it makes for a more expensive to manufacture and maintain carburetor because of the extra linkage on the off side of the throttle shaft.

Jon.

http://www.classicparts.com/1937-59-Choke-Throttle-Cable-Stop/productinfo/89-703/#.VSRPTRdpX48

https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/6733/Chevrolet_Wire_Stop_Adjustable_End_For_Hood.html

http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME403&i=10336|||||