The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
7 members (Chip O, Otto Skorzeny, klhansen, Peggy M, MrSnerdly, carbking, Ponchogl), 160 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,034
Posts1,055,541
Members48,425
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 71
H
Member
Member
H Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 71
This is a follow up question to my previous post about not being able to shut my engine off.

The side terminal on my starter switch is hot all the time. Shouldn't it only be hot when the starter is depressed?

Also, several have mentioned putting a 12 volt lamp in the line running from the ignition switch to the alternator. Can someone explain the purpose of that "resistance" and is this in addition to the ballast resistor on the line running from the ignition switch to the coil.

Thanks

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 336
F
Member
Member
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 336
I am assuming from your previous posts your starter switch is a push button with two terminals and you can run the starter with the ignition off. The first terminal connects to the battery and is hot all the time. The second terminal goes to the starter solenoid. It sounds like you have your ballast resistor bypass wired to the switch too. It should be wired to the same terminal as the wire that goes to the solenoid.

The alternator "idiot" light is in addition to and not related to the ballast resistor. I think you said you bought your harness? They may have already dealt with the "no shut off" problem.

Experiment by disconnecting that second wire to the coil first.


Gord
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
If the small terminal on the selenoid is hot
when the ignition is not on that would cause
your problem. Try disconnecting the wire on the
selenoid that goes to the coil. It should work
without it. If that is the case the terminal is
shorted inside. You can replace the selenoid or
take it apart & bend the contact back a little.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum

Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0