The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Whats needed for good gas mileage/daily driver

I'm looking to buy an older truck (late 50s to early 70s) to use as a daily, and for light hauling (lumber, small tent trailer, etc). As I commute 40 miles each day it needs to get reasonable mileage... 15 mpg at least on highway driving. I've read about various engines such as the Venerable 235' or the 250' the gas thirsty torque monster 292 or the 305 v6. I would love to hear from some of you guys as to your experience with these engines, mileage, suggestions for gearing to get better mileage, etc. From what I have heard so far there contradictory claims attached to each engine... Other than that they are all reliable! The 292 for eg was described by some as a 8 mpg hog while others claimed it could easily be coaxed into 18mpg. That's quite a difference. Any thoughts? Thanks for the feedback, will make the purchase of some old truck all the better.

in my experience you'd have a hard time making a 292 reliably get even decent mileage .... my choice for the engine would be a 235 or 283, but over 15mpg with either will be unusually good, your only chance for better will be highway rear gears or an overdrive trans .... of course it'll depend if your commute is primarily freeway or stop n go

Bill

This question about mpg is asked regularly. If you get a truck with a 3.55/3.90 rear end and drive it mostly between 55-65mph you should be able to get 15-18mpg.

Alot of it really comes down to the driver.

I get about 18-20 mpg around town in my '49 Panel truck, its powered by a '56 235, and has the fourspeed. I accelerate slowly. In fact, the city buses take off faster than I do. If I accelerate faster, my mileage drops off pretty quick. I also do most of my driving from 25-40 mph. I shift into fourth at about 15 mph. I'm a cheapskate, and that's why I take off and drive slow. I also live someplace I can drive everywhere on secondary roads, and not on a freeway.

I've often told friends I could retrofit their rides to get better mileage, but putting a wood block under the gas pedal, so they can't mash it down as far! No takers!

First off if your looking for a daily driver I would look for a
later 20xx truck. Your gonna pay about the same thing for one
probably a lot less than a classic truck.
Second off you will be able to get better milage with it most
likely better.
Third when it comes to getting repairs you'll find parts much
easier to get and much more avalable. If you can't work on it
your self then it will also be easier to find someone to
service it.
You will see guys here that say they use their Classic trucks as
daily drivers and for work but what they don't say is how much
extra maintainance they require.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I think Denny has a good point. IF you are not afraid to work on your 'daily' driver, then you will be fine. With mine (1950) after a few years, I know the truck pretty well now and do use it a lot, but not as my daily driver.

I also think that routine maintenance is mandatory on the older equipment, but that's part of the fun too!

Good luck. Let us know what you get.

I have always had old jalopies. I started driving them 55 years ago when thats all we had. I enjoy working on the old things, but for dependable transportation, I get a new pickup every 3 years. It costs me about $2,500 a year in depreciation, but absolutely nothing on repairs. Not even batteries. And when I want to go, I get in and go. This gives me more time to tinker on my old jalopies. My 2012 2500HD GMC gets an average of 15 miles to the gallon. That includes in town, highway and pulling trailers that weigh over 10,000 lbs. I have good brakes and the trailer brake wiring is built in.

Kenneth,

Sounds good. However, the $2,500 per year cost of depreciation is most likely in addition to the trade-in value (cost) each year. If that is the case, that trade-in value is a cost that had to made at some time in the past, and that trade-in money/cost is not available for something else now.

I do the same thing, with the same rationale, in buying a minivan every three years at the end of a model year and keeping it for three years. Up here, I'd need a covered pickup in order to get any use out of it during the winter. Also, my minivan gets 20-25mpg, depending on the type of driving.

I also completely agree with you about the reliability and comfort of modern vehicles relative to any old vehicle, even if the old vehicle is in excellent condition.

Nonetheless, if I could only afford one vehicle, and I did not have a significant amount of money to put into a down payment (on two vehicles - a new one and a classic one), and I lived in a warmer climate, and I was willing to keep up with the easy/inexpensive maintenance needed on these old trucks, I think I could make a economically valid argument that the total cost of ownership of an old truck as my only vehicle is at least no worse than buying a new vehicle every 1-3 years.

Also, I would only need a one vehicle garage.

If you want an old truck, don't let these guys scare you off. True there is more maintenance work with an older vehicle, like point adjustment every 1000 miles or so, brake adjustment and the like. But most of the expendable parts you need are available at your local auto parts store. And there are truck parts suppliers that have nearly every part on the old trucks.

I have a '54 GMC Suburban that I have put over 18,000 miles on in the last 2 years. It has a stock 248 six with an SM319 overdrive. I can drive 75 on the highway and get 16-17 mpg. I installed power front discs for slowing it down from 75. Putting around on the back roads I've gotten as much as 21 mpg. I have eliminated the point adjustments by using a Pertronix ignition.

I'd recommend an Advance Design ('47-55) or Task Force ('55-59) series or their GMC counter parts, the New Design and Blue Chip series. Any of the stock sixes in them are economical and dependable. Outfit it with an overdrive transmission and go for it.

If you get a '47-54 you will need to change to open driveline for an overdrive. The '55-59 have open driveline.

In addition to what cletus has posted, the '63-'72 (as you mention being interested in truck up to that year range) share many components as GM trucks well into the late '80s, or the later parts can be directly swapped in for an easy and inexpensive upgrade.

In the mid '80's. I had a 1965 GMC 1/2 ton with a 305 V-6 and 3-speed. It easily got 14 MPG (not even trying) and could out pull my father's 305 V-8 in his '77 Chevy.

Tim, I buy the cheapest 3/4 ton I can find. My cousin is a dealer and it takes some hunting for him to find one with standard cab, rubber floor mat and crank windows. 3 years later I pay around $8000 difference for another new one. Around here there is a good demand for well maintained 3/4 ton work trucks. No one stocks them and all people see is $50,000 new pickups with all the goodies. No one ever stops to think that a new work truck can be bought for around $27,000. Seeing a used 3 year old 3/4 ton with only 35k miles on my cousin's used car lot looks like a bargain at around $22,000. He comes out good and I never do anything but change oil. That gives me time to tinker on my jalopies. My cousin also has 2 Chrysler dealerships. I am thinking of getting a Fiat 500 with a 5 speed. I am hoping my cousin can get one through Chrysler. They can be bought for around $14,000 and are really fun to drive to run errands.

Thanks fellas, that's good info to mull over. I can see how an older truck may not be as practical as a new(er) truck. On the other hand if it allowed me to do most of the repairs it could turn out to be more practical (trading in a new truck every three years would be great but is not something I'm inclined to make the initial investment in right now). As far as doing your own repairs that depends on what that might involve .... No one ever accused me of being an expert mechanic. Back in the day before cars got harnessed to computers I would do the simple things like tune ups, replace water pumps, alternators, starters, tune the carb, replace head gaskets and that sort of straight forward stuff. If that level of skills can keep most old trucks going then it does become a little more practical. Btw, sounds like staying away from the 292 engine is the general advise if mileage means anything... Would that be right?