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#900382 11/30/2012 11:25 PM
Joined: Jun 2010
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New Guy
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I have a 1959 apache and I would like to box in my entire frame and switching the stock crossmembers to square tubing for aesthetics. Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to accomplish this task.

P.S. I would like to accomplish this without the frame being sprung.

Last edited by dragintail; 11/30/2012 11:54 PM.
dragintail #900547 12/01/2012 8:31 PM
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frame rack! nah just kiddin. i dont know exactly how you can accomplish this feat without some serious planning. best if you had a frame table to tie down the frame too. if you cant do that make sure to brace across the frame in several places. i wouldnt remove more than one crossmember at a time. also not to weld too much at a time to keep heat to a minimum and let it cool slowly. youll have to have alot of patience. just take your time and measure and use a level before and after every step. as far as the croosssmembers youll want a means of mechanical fastener along with your welds. i suggest a high grade bolt with a high shear rating with a good locknut and maybe some irremovable locktight. cant tell you much more than this maybe some more members will chime in with their thoughts. just my two cents MO


MO's 1951 chevy 3100 resto mod project
mo #901718 12/06/2012 7:07 PM
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Thanks MO! I am going to try the cross brace technique. I Boxed in the front where I put in the IFS. I liked how clean that turned out and I want the rest of the frame to look the same.

dragintail #901929 12/07/2012 4:26 PM
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What Mo said. When we did the frame on my 49 I hired a professional welder. He never welded anything more than 1 inch at a time. That sounds extremely slow but you are welding and positioning constantly so it's weld 1 inch on top at the right front then 1 inch at the bottom left rear, etc. That way you never heat up any one point enough to stress the frame and warp anything.

dragintail #905643 12/23/2012 10:37 AM
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There is a very good article in the January 2013 issue of "Classic Trucks" magazine that you might find helpful. It is titled "DIY Frame Mods".

dragintail #907371 12/30/2012 11:49 AM
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Before you take anything apart mark each and every hole or mount being used. You'll want to weld in backer nuts for the crap you'll no longer have access to once it is boxed. X out any other unused holes and fill them while you have the tools out. Cleans it up a bunch and keeps less water and junk out.

Look at the fuel and brake systems... see what needs to be done there...

Whire-wheel and and rust treatment for cleaning everything up prior to fabing. Clean metal is much easier to work with through-out this ordeal.

It's a PITA.... I've been working on my frame off and on for 3 months. I agree 100% with the cross braces.... if you think you need 3 add 5. Then you can remove your old cross members, if you're boxing in with a single long plate. I don't have a frame table but I leveled mine on jack stands and heavy weights on each corner. As stated before, check you're level every few welds. I have had to adjust things a few times.

Stitch the boxing plates about every 12" alternating to each side or wait and cool off, if doing one side at a time.

Once the plates are stitched. I'd start tacking up the new cross members. Depending on what thickness of material you boxed with, I would reinforce the weld area with an added plate x2 the area of the cross member. pretty much like a big washer on the end of the new cross member. There's a name for it, but it slips my mind right now. Tack it up only. If everything is square and level still. Start the final welding. One inch at a time.......

If I had to do it again.... I would buy a complete frame just for the the time savings alone...



Last edited by Lugnutzz3000; 12/30/2012 11:51 AM.

After searching for a year I found the next project!
46' 1/2 ton in pieces! took 2 trips to get it home, but most of the hard work was already done!!!

-jerry
"Phil" the 46'


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