The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 140 Amp Alternator

I'm changing from an external regulator alternator to an internal regulator 140 amp Cadilac model.
My questions are: "How are those CS Cadilac alternators triggered to put out juice?
#1
Does the computer do it?
#2
Or is it internally triggered like a one wire alternator?
#3
I'd like to know what I have to do to use this alternator. I'm getting conflicting advise locally from two people That I value both their opinions. I'd appreciate some help on this one.

What year is the alt from? .....Chb46

Most 1 wire alternaters just hook up to the big wire to the battery, unless you want to be fancy. Then you would run them through a relay from the ignition switch. Most are self exciting, however some need to have about 1500 RPM to self excite. I've not had any trouble with the cheap and dirty wiring, but would probably wire in a relay, in case a diode or 2 would go bad and discharge the battery. Just my $.02 worth.
Dennis

CHB46, The alternator came off of a 1981 Cadilac Seville.

Dabond, I was told that the alternator will put out 55 amps at idle on the Cadilac, you know for sitting in traffic with the a/c on max, and the big stereo blasting, maybe an extra cooling fan on the motor and 140 peak.

Hello again, to my knowledge there was not a alternator in a 81 Cad that was regulated by the computor, they were not that advanced at that time in public automobiles. The alt has an internal regulator like all the other GM alts. For peace of mind, and for a check before you go thru the work of installing it, Take it to your local auto parts store and have it tested, (Autozone) the test is free and it will tell you for sure wheather I am correct, am if it is any good. Hope this helps....Chb46

This site might help you a little.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Alternator.html#Delco

[img]http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/ubb/eek.gif[/img]

I wish to thank each person that answered my questions. THANK YOU! :p

I went through the same thing you did, I got advice here and on the chevytalk chevy forum. Well here it is, apparently the alternator need a electric charge to make it turn on, the big red wire goes to the battery, that leaves the two other wires coming out of the side. One of those wires the red one goes to where the other big red wire is hooked up to in the back "BATT" the white wire is looped around and goes inside the cab through the firewall and is connected to a swiched "on" only hot connectiion on the fuse box. However cut this white wire somewhere between the alt and the fuse box and connect a small light bulb and socket. You need to find those light bulb sockets at autozone that have two wires, you know one that the wire is connected to the botton nipple of the light bulb and the other wire is connected to the side base of the light bulb. Here is the theory, when you turn the key to switched the current will go out the wire of the fuse box to the base of the bulb going inside the bulb and out the base nipple and out to the wire that goes to the alternator, causing the light bulb to light up. once you turn the key to crank the motor and the motor turns on soon the allternator turns on and the current goes back down this wire to where the light bulb and turns it off as long as the motor is running and the alternator is charging properly. when you shut off the motor or the alternator staarts to under charge the light bulb starts to flicker and turn on. this is like the idiot lights on the cars. This bulb is the resistance tthat is needed to start the alternator. Some folks install a resister about 10 amps I think instead of the light bulb. Any old 12 volt light bulb will work. Believe this works great. I think a guy on this forum called fifthhave sells the resistors, but the bulb is a good idea especially if you can install it in the dash without shorting it you have your very own idiot light that really serves a purpose. Class dismissed kool 65