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| | | Forums66 Topics128,192 Posts1,057,351 Members48,469 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 1 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 1 | Hi all, I am a newbie here and thought I might throw this question out there. I know there are people who have dealt with this before. I am looking at buying an original 1953 3100 pick up and would like to know the best way of lowering it while still preserving the geometry and ride quality. I like the look of lowered trucks but more important I need the truck low enough to pass under a 6' garage door (with a 30 degree incline on the other side) to get into my apt. building. What is the best/most cost effective way of doing this and by how much can I lower the truck? Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 257 | Welcome, Ottocycle (nice handle. I studied you in school!)
There are a lot of answers to your question but remember the best may not always be the most economical. I bought my '50 3100 with it already lowered a few inches. The previous owner removed a couple leaves from the front springs (very economical, maybe not so safe). When I rebuilt the truck, I cleaned the front springs and installed the liner between the springs. it made the front springs almost too soft. They bottom out when i hit bumps. And I bought a lowering kit for the rear from TCI and was very happy with it. If I had the truck apart again, I would probably look at options for IFS in the front, except I wanted to keep the 6 bolt wheels. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 420 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 420 | www.droppedaxle.com nostalgia sid's i took my front axle out of my 46 1/2 ton and all my steering parts and sent them to him, and had the axle dropped 3", and he installed new kingpins and sent me all new tie rod ends and modified steering arms and my new 3" drop axle for around 700 bucks,and, you dont have to touch your springs, it would cost u way more than that to have all that done, if you did it individually, and mine slid right back together in about an hour, was driving in 2 hours, | | |
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