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| | | Forums66 Topics128,140 Posts1,056,774 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 65 | Bought new rubber from LMC, has any one out there changed yours out ( looks like 47-54 is all the same)? Cab goes in a notch, is it a pain to redo? looks like door is glued in but am unsure of how it goes. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 65 | Should have read old postings on this subject, it's all been done before. Found all the info I needed. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 30 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 30 | yeah there is lots of information regarding the replacement of these seals on this site. The doors are easy, the windlace takes a little more time. I used silicone spray (a lot of it) it takes a little while so be patient and work it around its not a difficult process.. good luck.
Kent 1953 1/2 ton Chevrolet
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Because you might be tormented by silicone contamination during future paint jobs, you might want to use a different lubricant with door-opening windlace. A non-scented water-based/soluble personal lubricant works quite well (generic or Walmart version of K-Y jelly). It does not contaminate like silicone-based lubricants, and it is safer with rubber seals than are oil-based lubricants.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 | I second that. Silicone and oils are hell for painters. I use to be one. And what we do when contaminates like that are encountered is add fish-eye eliminator to the paint while spraying. Only problem is it makes the paint not flow like it should. I would only do this on cheap jobs. Otherwise it makes too much to color sand and clear or buff later. Best to clean like crazy first. Sometimes you just can't get rid of the silicone, so best not to torture your painter if you want a good job. Dave Because you might be tormented by silicone contamination during future paint jobs, you might want to use a different lubricant with door-opening windlace. A non-scented water-based/soluble personal lubricant works quite well (generic or Walmart version of K-Y jelly). It does not contaminate like silicone-based lubricants, and it is safer with rubber seals than are oil-based lubricants. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 328 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 328 | Don't laugh too hard, but I have had good luck with canola oil for body and window rubber manipulation. An old auto window guy recommended it to me some time ago and I have used it since...... It dries out over time so, once you've got installed just wipe off the excess. It doesn't attack the rubber.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | | | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 4 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 4 | What works well is the gel type hand cleaner. It cleans the rubber and lubs it to slide in and will clean off real easy. Give it a try with W/S. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 21 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 21 | The channel around the door on the inside of the cab needs to be straight. Take out dings and kinks. Put the rubber through the top part over the door opening first. Don't cut the ends of the rubber until it has a chance to relax, your stretching it a bit while pulling it into place. Follow directions on the weather strip adhesive for the door rubber. Don't close the door till the adhesive cures. Do all the work in a warm place. Take your time, you'll be living with the results for a long time. | | |
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