The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop She wont Fire

I have a 235 out of a 58-62.

I know I have power to the coil. opposite of power in is a wire that runs to the side of the distributor. I have tried pulling a spark plug, grounding it, and get no spark. I have pulled the wire off the top of the coil, and set it near to see if a spark would jump, nothing happens.

This is my first take on a traditional coil and distributor system so I apologize for my ignorance.


Attached to the coil is a small cylinder, that I have been told is the condensor. It currently has no wires running to it. SHould it, and if it doesn't would that keep it from working. I may need to adjust the points, but it ran when it was parked 15 years ago, so i would think it would still be good.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

You can get the help you need here. I might suggest to do a search on this site about getting a vehicle running after its been sitting for an extended period of time. The condenser of the side of the coil not being hooked up is not an issue for having spark or not. The points should be checked yes. Also check the fuel system and it may not be a bad idea to oil the cylinders and valve stems before you try and get it going.
Good Luck
Don

Thanks Don.

I have been trolling the site for a while now, and I have appreciated all the help given.

I have ran new fuel lines, cleaned the carb, and the fuel pump works like a champ to my surprise.

Correct me if I am wrong. The points as they say is actually one point that can be adjusted by two srews. this one point then should drag along the hexagon shaped part below the rotor in the distributor. I assume the point gab should be set when the one point is on the flat side of the hexagon. If so what is that gap?

Also, like others have sugguested. I put marvel oil a tablespoon on top of the cylinders.

WELCOME to StoveBolt, The points should be set when it's on the high side of the hexagon, or they will never close and it won't start.

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Correct me if I am wrong. The points as they say is actually one point that can be adjusted by two srews. this one point then should drag along the hexagon shaped part below the rotor in the distributor. I assume the point gab should be set when the one point is on the flat side of the hexagon. If so what is that gap? [/quote]
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When you say high side do you mean a corner of the hexagon?

yes

Yes, and set the points at .019 inch.

Thanks guys. If I set the gap right, and there is still no spark what would the next step be.

Does anyone know a really good video showing how to set this gap?

I believe there are picture and a description of this in the shop manual.

You can have a look online at Keith Hardy's site:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com

You can use the 1950, or the later manual for your engine, in most ways, they are the same.

You can get it to spark by having the points closed (on the flat of the hexagon) and just open and close them with your fingernail with the ignition on. you should see a little spark at the points, and if you have someone hold the high voltage wire from the coil with the boot pulled back near the block, you should see a big spark.

A little care is required or the high voltage wire will bite ya.
Just a little test to see if everything is working. You are of course bypassing the distributer cap when you do this.

Kurt

If the engine has not been run for 15 years I suspect the points have corrosion on them preventing them from making contact.
Points are cheap. They can be cleaned but they most likely need to be replaced anyways.

I'm confused - did you say the condensor is attached to the coil?! Not in the distributor? I guess that might not make a difference, if it's on the negative post of the coil, but it seems goofy. Anyway, you sound like you've got the skills to lick this.

Are you able to turn the engine so the distributor shaft is turning? You are correct - there are two screws to adjust the points. Usually a smaller silver one locks the points, and a larger, brass one adjusts the base plate away from the arm to set the point gap. This is done with the arm right on one of the 6 peaks of the cam. You only need to slightly loosen the lock-down, adjust the gap to 19 thousanths, (don't freak out too much about getting this perfect - it would probably start anywhere between 15 and 25) and tighten the lock screw. You are adjusting how much the points open every time a cam peak opens the points, which should cause the coil to spit out the high-tension charge to the distributor center post, through the rotor, and out the right plug wire at the right time to fire the plug. And I agree with Dave, that it's likely the points are glazed over, and at least need some filing.

I also agree with Kurt - With the points on a flat, ie: closed, and with the ignition on, use a screw-driver or popsicle stick or something to flip the points open. You should get a regular spark every time you do this. You then know that the primary ignition is functioning well enough to run.

Now - with the distributor back together, and the center wire from the coil held close to a ground, if you don't see any spark when the engine is turned over, you either have a bad coil wire, or a bad coil. Be sure to clean the coil and distributor post, and the wire ends.

IF you get spark out of the coil, but not out of the plug wires, then again it's bad wires, or a bad rotor or cap. If the wires are stiff and crackle when you bend them, get a new set. The parts store should be able to set you up with a universal set for a six cylinder that will work fine, but try to get solid core wires, not that carbon-filiment-resistor wire crap that modern cars use.

OK - I'm now rambling. Good luck.

-MIchael

Well Brad, does she run ?????

Shes ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!

After replacing everything on the distributor new coil plugs and wires. Here we go!

Heck yea!


I should have bought the vac advance, cause that doesnt work.

looks great!