Assuming the alternator is wired correctly, the regulator can be tested by bypassing it. You are going to need a jumper wire. Unplug the regulator , put the jumper wire between the battery hot terminal and the field terminal. These terminals are probably marked F, 2,3,4.
You want to jumper F to 4. (It has been so long, I cannot remember if it is 3 or 4, one is hot with the key, one is hot at all times. You want the one hot at all times) This will energize the alternator and cause it to go full power. It is called "full Fielding". If the alternator now charges, the regulator was defective. If still not charging, you either have a bad alternator or it is hooked up wrong. Don't leave it like this to long, the alternator will overcharge the battery.
If you want to go to an internal regulator, just take the wire off the regulator that was hot at all tmes and connect it to terminal 2 on the new alternator. Take the wire that is hot with the key and connect it to terminal number 1 on the new alternator. Hook up the battery wire at the large connector and you are done. The other wire(s) on the old regulator are not needed and can be left alone or taped back into the harness. By the way, This way only works if you have a battery charge lite (idiot lite). If your truck has a voltmeter or ammeter the hook up is different.
By the way, taking the battery cable off with the engine running is good way to blow diodes in the alternator. Invest $10 in a cheap voltmeter at Chief/checker/Auto Zone.
Good luck