The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest recommendations for clicker type torque wrench

I have a couple beam types, but half the time its a PIA to see the scale, so I'd like to get a clicker or audible digital. I'll need an inch pound for small stuff and something to about 120 ft-lbs for the bigger.

Accuracy and low cost (value) are considerations. Saw this , but never heard of them. In an old post someone mentioned KD. Harbor Freight and Mac are out.

I usually try to get my torgue wrenches at 250 ft-lbs. That way most head bolts are covered. Can't help you with a recommendation as the last one I bought was off the Snap-on truck. No low cost involved.

I like the Snap-On TQR series, found a nice 3/4" drive cheap on craigslist, small fraction of new price.
Now I'm looking for a TQR250 which is the 1/2" drive.
Point is find out what you want not considering cost and then look for one until you find one in your price range.

Another good wrench is the electronic ones, I have 1/4" and 3/8" snap-on, bought them mew though.

Grigg

OK, Can I get some suggestions regardless of cost? Are craftsman any good these days?

The snap-on TQR series and the electronic ones from them as well. I think they are top of the line, few torque wrenches are better, if any.
If you search for a TQR250 thats a 1/2" drive. Check the catalog or snap-on website for more models.

Grigg

I see you said Harbor Freight is out, good call. Cost me three sets of gaskets and a different set of heads to figure that out.

So I guess my HF clicker is junk. I can accept that. I've only used it for my basic body and suspension torque needs. I guess I'll go back and re-check the torque with my son's Crafstman clicker.

I checked my Harbor Freight torque wrench against a professonal friend's recently calibrated Snap-On torque wrench. They were within 5% of each other at 5 readings. I told my friend to ask the Snap-one rep why his gauge was off by 5%.

Nonetheless, I would not have used any torque wrench unless it had been calibrated.

That's hilarious!

Quick question: If I bought a good quality used torque wrench off ebay or some such site, should I be concerned with how accurate the tool is? Do these tools have a problem with needing to be calibrated on a regular basis? And if so, what is involved? For instance, would a snap-on TQR-250 that was a few years old typically need some servicing by a qualified person? I would love to save money over buying new but want to make sure I know what to expect. All advice appreciated!
Fred

The biggest problem with the less expensive clicker type is that they are not backed off when you store them, and keeps the springs compressed, then they need to be calibrated. Mine are parellel beam type and backing them is not as critical, but they are pricy. I have a old SO clicker and is always backed off, had it calibrated 3 times and are always right on the money, the dealer told me that backing them off was the reason.

I have a 3/8 and 1/2 KD micrometer style torque wrenches that I use daily (building engines). We have a Snap-On caibration unit at the shop and I check my wrenches every year. Both wrenches are over 10 years old and neither one has requied any adjusting. As long as the wrenches are stored with the springs unloaded you should never have any problems.

* I also do not loan my torque wrenches out to friends. Using them as breaker bars ect are the #1 thing that will skew your readings.

Thats odd. The site let me write a post without being signed in. Never been able to do that before.

Anyway, the previous question is mine.

Ok, my anonamous post with my question was deleted.

How does one go about "unloading" the spring in the torque wrench? I have a HF clicker style. I understand it may not be the greatest, but I'd lake to prolong its life/usefulness as long as possible.

just unscrew the handle down to a low torque setting.

Grigg;

Roger. Got it.

Thanks!

Reactivating an old thread!

I have a window type torque wrench. Problem is my eyes are not as good as they used to be and I'm having trouble reading the darn thing. it's similar to this:
[img]http://www.tw-tech.com.tw/upfile/image/13a38ecdf2ec2576c357f414a2a8746d85424fc6.jpg[/img]

Looking for a 1/2" drive replacement that's easy to read. I don't rebuild engines; wrench is mostly used for wheel lug nuts so I don't think I need to splurge.

Recommendations? What do you think about the digital adapters?

Digital Adapter

We have a few of this type. Set the value you want, watch for the green LED and listen for the tone. Utilize senses other than the eyes.

Where can you go to get a torque wrench recalibrated?

Thanks, Mark. Thinking about it a bit more, perhaps one that doesn't require batteries would be best. Last year, the batteries died on my welding helmet. They died at an inconvenient time and they were the most expensive button batteries in the store.

Brian: Recalibrate DIY

That digital adapter is cute. It would work with a breaker bar or other wrench handle, but it's too small, IMO, and possibly a bit fragile. I'd probably lose it.
When I bought my SuperDuty, I needed a torque wrench that would get to 165 ft-lb for the lug nuts. My old 1/2" drive beam and pointer type wrench only got to 150 ft-lb. So I bought a Husky clicker wrench at Home Despot for about $100 IIRC. It's durable and has served me well over the years. It'll work for me as long as I have my hearing aid turned up. Actually, you can feel when it clicks as well.

Gord thank you for the link.

FWIW -- When I needed to replace my old beam type wrench, I found out (apparently) that the CDI brand is owned by Snap-On and makes all the torque wrenches for Snap-on (rebranded). But you can save $$ if you just buy the CDI branded wrench. I'm very pleased with it. Hotrod Jerry even checked it and it was pretty well calibrated right out of the box.

Thanks for the suggestions.