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| | | Forums66 Topics128,035 Posts1,055,441 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 8 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 8 | Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy brake lines for my 1954 chevy truck 1/2 ton 3100. Ive seen a few stores on ebay, but figured I would ask here.
Last edited by Woogeroo; 11/19/2012 3:17 PM. Reason: added year/make/model to topic
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,700 back yard wrench turner | | back yard wrench turner Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,700 | Welcome to the Stovebolt.
Do you want prebent lines? Can you bend and install them yourself? Wayne1938 1-Ton Farm TruckStovebolt Gallery Forums1989 Silverado 1996 Mustang GT convertible When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it! | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | If it's all stock you can get pre made ones.
If you have any changes then with a small investment in GOOD brake flare and bending tools it's not that hard to make them yourself. If you buy the cheapest tools you can find it might not be as fun, may still worth though..
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | I buy bulk brake line and fuel line at O'Reillys in 25' coils for about $1.00 per foot or less. They carry most common sizes. Double flaring tools are inexpensive and relatively easy to use. O'Reillys carries the flare nuts as well, but sometimes the selection is limited. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | kks,
If you have a manual transmission, many vendors sell ready-made brake line, if prefer to buy them made-up. If you have a Hydra-Matic transmission, check with Inline Tube.
Jim Carter Truck Parts Classic Parts of America Ecklers Inline Tube Classic Tube probably Chevs of the 40s probably American Classic Truck Parts
They are available ready-made in original metal tubing and in stainless steel.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 40 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 40 | What's everyone's thoughts on SS vrs metal or coated lines...? I'm also looking into building my own...
-Jerry
After searching for a year I found the next project! 46' 1/2 ton in pieces! took 2 trips to get it home, but most of the hard work was already done!!! -jerry "Phil" the 46' | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 177 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 177 | Depends on what you are willing to spend, and how much you like your knuckles. I spent around $50 on brake line and flare nuts, and borrowed my neighbors flare tool. Cut a couple 6 inch pieces to practice double flaring then went at it.
Took me a weekend to tear out and replace all the brake lines. It was my first time doing brakes and so far I have not found any leaks, or had any problems stopping (knock on wood). | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I like the hand bendable alloy ones myself. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | At one time I thought stainless steel was good, but that was before finding the "easy bend" Copper Nickel alloy brake line. The CuNi line is about as corrosion resistant if not more so than stainless steel, and it is a dream to flare and bend. Stainless on the other hand is very difficult to flare and bend, you need very good tools to flare it well or you can fight with the cheaper ones and get by (I've done both). To bend stainless you need to get it just right, it is very rigid, the bends need to be in the right place and just the right angle to get the line to fit. Softer line has a little give and can be tweaked by hand for a perfect fit, not so easy to do with stainless. If you're buying ready made lines and they actually fit then stainless would be just fine. If you're making your own the CuNi is the only way to go, same for fuel lines. CuNi can be bought at most autoparts stores these days (couldn't a year or two ago). Try part number CNC325 for a 25' coil of 3/16" copper nickel alloy line. They have other sizes and lengths too. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=73293more info from one of the manufacturers http://www.agscompany.com/automotive/11list of sizes http://www.agscompany.com/automotive/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/nicoppGrigg | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | I also used the 25ft coil.
it was nice to have extra material... especially when your admiring a very nice double flare you just finished
then look down and see the the flare nut still in the bag.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 40 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 40 | Thanks Grigg! That solved much of my problem!
After searching for a year I found the next project! 46' 1/2 ton in pieces! took 2 trips to get it home, but most of the hard work was already done!!! -jerry "Phil" the 46' | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Grigg,
Based on the advice you have given in the past year regarding the CU-NI flexible tubing, I bought a roll for the plumbing of dual action fuel pumps. I'll post my experiences with it next summer.
Thanks,
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Please do, I have no doubts you'll like it though.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 436 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 436 | I also used the 25ft coil.
it was nice to have extra material... especially when your admiring a very nice double flare you just finished
then look down and see the the flare nut still in the bag. Or if you do as I have in the past. Look down to see the flare nut on the wrong side of the 90* bend you just finished putting in the new line. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 2 Moderated | | Moderated Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 2 | Hello I have a question on the brake line size of my 1954 3100. I am redoing the lines and the old lines at the back are 3/16" however I have read that they should be 1/4"? The fitting coming from the wheel cylinders are 3/16. tried to get a fitting that was 1/4" coming out of the wheel cylinder but could not find locally. I can adapt up, but that would be like staying with the 3/16. My big question is can I just keep it at 3/16? what purpose would it have been to use the 1/4" on the back brakes. There was also one other place they used the 1/4" coming of the master cylinder? What should I do? stay with the 3/16 or try and change all fittings to 1/4" thanks any help will be appreciated Bill | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 1,101 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 1,101 | I just replaced my brakes and about half the brake lines on my 54 3100. The sizes where mixed. All the individual lines going to each wheel were 3/16. They appear to be original. The replacement wheel cylinders where for 3/16. The only 1/4 inch line I had was coming off one of the two master cylinder outlets. It ran to a splitter feeding the back wheels and one of the front wheels. Leaving that splitter was 3/16 lines to the individual wheels. The other outlet from the master cylinder was a direct line to my front driver side wheel. It was 3/16. I bought standard coated steel lines from AutoZone. they are straight and come in various lengths with the ends already made up. No need to flare yourself. I was able to get lines that were close enough in length to the originals and bend them myself with no issue. You can get a tubing bender at Harbor Freight for less than $10. If you are careful you could probably bend them without a bender by hand. They were about $5-$6 per section. | | |
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