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#89653 09/24/2002 4:35 PM
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 40
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Okay, for those of you that have been following my saga in the Engine forum I want to say I really appreciate all the time and support you have given a newbie. Now back to our story...

New clean points and condeser, properly gapped.
New spark plugs, properly gapped.
Turns over and cranking fine.
Spark on metal when coil wire is pulled.
Coil installed correctly with neg going to distributor.
NO SPARK on points when forced apart when ignition is on.
NO SPARK at plug.

What should I try next? :confused:


'48 Chevy 3/4ton 5 Window Deluxe
#89654 09/24/2002 4:54 PM
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Posts: 27
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If you haven't changed the condenser, I would try that. It could be that simple.

#89655 09/24/2002 5:04 PM
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I just reread your old posts and it seems you already changed the condenser. so..............
this is a longshot, but the coil may be the culprit, do you know if it is good? it may show you spark, but not enough to fire your plugs.

#89656 09/24/2002 5:43 PM
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That's what I've been told to suspect, so I am going to swap it out and see if that does the trick.


'48 Chevy 3/4ton 5 Window Deluxe
#89657 09/24/2002 5:54 PM
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Are the cap and rotor in good shape?


if it dosen't need fixed, break it
#89658 09/24/2002 8:37 PM
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Look to be okay... no burning or scoring.


'48 Chevy 3/4ton 5 Window Deluxe
#89659 09/24/2002 9:31 PM
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Can I use a 6 volt coil with a 12 volt system?


'48 Chevy 3/4ton 5 Window Deluxe
#89660 09/24/2002 9:59 PM
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Okay... from crusing the past posts it looks to me like I can't use the IC9 6 volt coil, but need the IC64 12 volt one instead... the guys at Napa are getting to know me really well.

So my question is, since my truck was converted from a 6 volt system I have the external resistor on the firewall... since I am going to be installing a coil with an internal resistor, what do I need to do to eliminate the old one?


'48 Chevy 3/4ton 5 Window Deluxe
#89661 09/25/2002 2:20 AM
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Ijust went through the same problem.Ireplacedpoints condensor and the coil.Istill had nothing.It drove me crazy.Well this is what it turned out to be in my case.When i replaced the points and condensor i aparently had the prongs on the condensor grounding out on either the botom or sides of the distributor.Thinking back, the prongs on the new condensor were longer than those on the original. look at my post in the electrical forum. Race carl gives some very helpful tips for checking the coil and distributor.Hope this helps...Ron
Quote
Quote
from race carl.... The first thing we need to determine is if the distributor is grounded correctly. Unhook the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor (the one that connects the points to the coil). Hook a test light to the distributor on the small wire, using the pointed end. Hook the clip end on the positive battery terminal at the starter. Crank the engine over and watch the test light. It should flicker on and off as the points open and close.

If the light does not come on at all, the points are not grounding out. Take the test light probe and check the backing plate for a ground (will the backing plate light up the test light?) If not, there is a wire under the backing plate that grounds the plate to the case (completing the circuit to ground) that is not making contact.

If the light stays on all the time even while cranking, the points are grounded out all the time. Unhook the condensor and crank again. Does the light flicker now? If so, the condensor is shorted out. Get a new condensor and see if that helps. Another test to perform is to remove the wire that goes from the 'stud' on the distributor to the points. Hook the test light up directly to the terminal on the points and observe. If the light now flickers, I would say the insulation around the 'stud' is bad, which is grounding out the points all the time.

A crude method of testing the coil would be to feed the coil on the (+) terminal and use a jumper wire to momentarily ground out the (-) terminal on the coil. Have the coil wire in the coil and set up to jump a gap so you can see if it has fire. Ground and unground the (-) terminal on the coil and every time you touch the jumper wire to the (-) terminal, the coil should throw a spark.


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#89662 09/25/2002 2:48 PM
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Boswell,
To answer your question, when you go from an externally reisited coil to one that is internally resisted just eliminate the resister and connect the wires.
T


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