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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,267 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 428 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 428 | I have about 2 1/2 feet of windlace that detached from the inside of the truck. So I am looking for ideas to reattach the channel. I could plug weld or tach weld along the sides, but I am concerned about the windlace fitting well. So anyone have an alternative to welding it, or would the best approach be just to go ahead and weld it back in place. Also my welding skills aren't what they once were. | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 | I have the sample problem and plan on pop riveting the channel back in place
Joe
1955 First Series 3100
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 | The windlace is the track for the door windows I put mine in with some small stainless screws (1/2 x 4) so I could take it out if I needed to - which I have twice now. | | | | Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 154 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 154 | Tack weld it back on about 2 inches apart. It needs to be solid when you start pulling the rubber windlace back in track. | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 428 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 428 | Thanks for all the comments. I decided to use steel rivits. I put them 4 inches apart, and they seem to be very solid. After I get the finishing touches on the inner cowl panel, I will install the windlace and report back. | | |
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