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Just a thought,, could i be out 180 deg,,, and it still run? and would the BB and the rotor button still line up in both places? !,,Just a thought
Thanks

Yeahh we are getting somewere now thansk to all the guys that spoon feed me i am real close now, , what i did was move the plug wires on cap and loosen the small screw on dizzy and got it lined up it almost starts with no gas, ,, time for timing light and vac guage

thanks so much guys

update right now i can get it to run , but not real good , when i rev it up the dizzy dont turn now , i did something i guess and i see that i have a vac leak around 1 of the intake ports to head , i sprayed some wd-40 and it idled up ,, wow this supost to be a simple rebuild ,, my luck if it can it does

An intake leak can cost you a piston in no time. You should address it immediately.

Jason

Well i had the intake and exhaust milled together and it looks good, , but i also found out that the gasket that goes from intake to carb has cracks, , i tried to find one but the one i have is about 5/8 thick and the parts house want to sell me a normal one 1/8 thick, ,, whats up with that? ?

Thanks

is the the piece your referring to?

...link...

if so try another auto parts store. they should be able to get you the correct insulator.

no they said the same thing i can use ( fel 9519) its thinner but shouldnt make a difference ???

Your old gasket is 5/8 thick?

you have a insulator plate and then a 5/8 gasket?

yeah i had a 5/8 spacer and maybe a gasket dont know about the gasket but i did have a spacer the fel pro 9519 looks just like it but thinner i dont know until tomm i ordered on
thanks

The felpro part you ordered is just the gasket

If the plate that is 5/8 thick is cracked that is the insulator plate.
It's a seperate piece and that is in the link I posted earlier.

I realize your working on a car
Here is a pic off my truck
...pic...

Hope I'm not confusing you.

yes that is right do i need that ?? i was told that as long as the butterfly flap dont hit it would be fine ,, what do you say ?

I'm not qualified to answer if it's ok to eleminate the Insulator plate,

From what I understand it serves a purpose to keep some of the heat away from the carb.

If you remove it you may have to change your mounting studs to shorter ones.

Also I'm not sure if the acclerator linkage will be affected.

Maybe someone else will chime in with an idea.

Who told you that?

It was/is a standard part. You might get away without using it. But, if you have problems, fingers will point to it being missing.

a local mechanic i dont know that why i come to ask the pro's i know none of my local prts houses have it they only have the 9519 gasket thats it ,, i see on the net the offer both in a kit ,, i hate to order stuff i like going to buy ,, i been tring to get this running for 2 weeks now seems like its always something else that pops up ,,i want to do it right for sure , i just wish i could go but the thing you know

thanks

GM wouldn't have put that insulator on if it wasn't needed. Wait until you go out on a really hot day for a ride and you'll probably find out. These guys on here have a lot of experience with these old engines and I'd trust them any day over most of the parts people in the industry today. Seams most of them are young and computer smart and without the computer couldn't find the bathroom. If you have to go to the parts store find the oldest gray haired one behind the counter. He may be slow but more than likely he'll know. Larry

Chevrolet dropped the 235 carb insulator in 1959-62 in the passenger car line to get the hood lower.

i glued mine for now i ordered one it will be in a few days but for now i can get it running and figure out the dizzy why its not advacing

thanks

Only a few reasons I can think of:

* no vacuum signal to the advance can at the base of the dist: broken hose? leaking fitting?

* signal at can, but no movement of arm from can: can diaphragm no longer works. Reasonably priced replacements are avail from the usual places.

* signal at can and movement at can arm, but no dist rotation: arm not connected to clamp around dist shaft? clamp slipping on dist shaft? dist shaft not free to rotate and can arm can't overcome the resistance

Think that about covers what to check.

Jason