The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 6-Lug Complete disc brake kit

I was wondering if anyone on here has ever used the 6-Lug Complete disc brake kit from Classic Performance Products. Thinking about buying just worried about running into problems with the fitment. I have a stock front end on my 59 Apache. I'm new to the classic truck scene, so I wanted to get some opinions before I bought the product.

Thanks,
Coot

Put one on a buddy's 55 2nd. He wanted to stay straight axle. It was a project, but very well worth it. Everything fit and worked as advertised.

I have been running the brakes for several years. My biggest complaint is that my truck eats up the roller bearings really quickly. I have a 59 gmc 1/2 ton longbed with 31X10.5 tires. I have already been through 3 sets of roller bearings, burnt up 3 spindles and spun 3 bearings in the hubs making the hubs and spindles scrap metal.

Before installing the disc brake kit check your spindles for any signs of wear. Most the spindles I have been looking at have deep scoring where the inner bearing rides the spindle. If you can see any discoloration or feel a groove with your finger nail there, You will need to locate a new or better used spindle.

Be aware that you can not use the stock 15" wheels with the CPP 6 lug conversion as the inside web of the wheel will not clear the calipers. Several other aftermarket sources sell the same kit. They also need the bearing conversion as stated above. I used the 5 lug (Camaro/Malibu) conversion and re-drilled the rear axles. I also installed aftermarket wheels and had the caps modified to fit. More options with newer wheels. No problems after 10 years of daily use.
Fred

Thankyou for the information. I'm trying to keep my truck as stock as possible, but I will feel a little safer with disc brakes instead of drums. I have been trying to do some research on the different companies that sell the disc brake kits. I'm not rookie at working on old trucks, but I'm also not a mechanic. I've bought a couple diffrent manuals on my truck so I'm learning. Anyways, I've been looking for kits that wouldn't take to much fabricating just to get them to work.

the kit from Performance online looks like it is better put together. In the sense that they give you more options.

I found a good deal at Brothers Truck Parts and order the disk brake kit on 10/23/12. Kit and bearings shipped for $543.00. I purchased the booster/MC kit on Ebay for $216 shipped.

As for the spindles, it is important that the inner bearing race will not spin on the spindle. It should be a snug fit. If loose, or the spindle is scored, JB weld can be used to build up and clean up with emory cloth. Or, the bearing can be installed with red locktight to ensure the race does not spin. The roller bearings do not ride on the spindle directly.

I checked out the brake kit on Brothers. It seemed to be a good deal. I found a kit on ecklers trucks that seems to be complete. It states that it fits the stock 6-lug hubs, which I like. It recommends upgrading the bearings, which I'm fine with that. Still looking through the different sites trying to decide which one is a better deal and is a more complete kit. Alot of them sell the disc brake, then at the end of the ad it states you have to buy other parts from their site to get the kit to work properly. Anyways, right now just trying to weigh the pros and cons of each website. Thanks for the repsonses so far.

...and don't rule out Speedway. I've found their products to be good and service as well. I also THINK I remember seeing a complete disc brake kit of an AD style pickup for around $250. COMPLETE! Check their new catalog.

Thanks. I didn't even think about Speedway. I will check their site out.

Are you going to have power? A question that comes to my mind is, "Do you have to have power or can you run a disc/drum setup with a proper master without power?"

I received the booster/dual MC that I purchased from Ebay for $216. Turns out it is manufactured by CPP and seems to be a quality assembly. Comes with bench bleeding kit, plastic squirt bottle and spacer to delete clutch pedal (?). Anyway, I test fitted the assembly on my bare frame last night and due to the location of the pressure reducing valve there is significant interference with the tranny cross member. So, my plan is to remove the valve (from the booster/MC (on its own bracket) and locate it someplace else. Then the cross member will only require slight modificatin if any at all. All in all, a good buy at $216 (shipped).

After talking to a few people I think I'm going to keep my truck with its drums.

just got the 6 lug kit from POL with all the upgrades. Everything looks bad [censored]!

I got my kit from Brothers yesterday and am excited to get it bolted up. Soon I will have a rolling restored chasis complete as far as I can go without interferring with cab and sheetmetal installation.

FYI, the kit from Brothers is manufactured by CPP.

CPP does not "manufacture" anything. They have components built with their logo on them. They, like most of the other "suppliers" probably get the majority of their stuff from China.
Fred

An 80's Corvette MC will work w/ discs, that is what it was designed for.

Ok, I stand corrected. The box of parts I received seem to have come from CPP (logo on MC, and assembly instructions from CPP for conversion kit.

My Dad's '71 C10 had disc front and drum rear with a manual master cylinder. It never felt unsafe, but I wouldn't say it stopped "well". By contrast my '66 with stock drums and stock manual m/c stopped better.

I have the CPP front kit. Haven't installed it yet but I'm going with a manual pedal/dual MC setup. Olblue3600 is using one from a Vette. Says it takes more muscle than a boosted setup but not as much as the original drums.

I completed the installation of my CPP 6-lug front disk brake kit. Install went smooth and I love the look of the (more) modern brakes on the old front straight axle. The only thing I would add to the sparse instructions are:
1. The three holes in the hub that are used for bolting the disk to the hub need to be chamfered on the outside face in order for the countersunk bolts to seat properly. This was not mentioned in the instructions.
2. When mounting the caliper bracket, ensure the offset is toward the center of the chassis.

Now all I need to do is run new brake lines and finish rebuilding the rear axle and I have a 100% restored rolling chassis.

Can you suggest appropriate sizing for wheels?
I have installed the CPP 6-lug disc kit on my '51 and of course you are correct (not that I doubted). I have ~ 1/2" spacer on there right now, just so I can move it around.
What specs do I need re offset/back-space?
I'm probably looking at replacing with an OEM looking wheel but with modern radials. Perhaps a smoothie ...
Nothing outlandishly wide nor large diameter/low profile
Advice appreciated!

(even 6 lug wheels from other models I could consider?)