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i have a 1958 235 motor and i am changing my points to electronic ,, with it work with my dizzy?? i dont know because of the vac advance , its different than most i seen .
just checking i i know someone has installed them before

thanks

Can you post a photo of your distributor (vacuum advanve mechanism)? It is possible that it was changed over the years.

If the distributor is original, the Pertronix mechanism will work. If you have a 12v system, you will need a matching coil (or a ballast resistor).

yes it works, it is very simple to hook up. Just make sure you keep the points and all the little wrenches you need to change back with you at all times. Many people report excellent results, however I asked the specific question whether or not people were satisfied with the unit, I got 9 responses, 4 of them cited failure and/or dissatisfaction with pertronix. Along with my own personal dissatisfaction with it leads me to believe it is similar to a crap shoot. I took the wrenches out of my glove box and forgot to put them back in and ended up riding the bus.

The dizzy i have when it advances the whole dizzy turns, , thats why i was asking, , i think i will do what you say put the set in glove box with a screw driver

Thansk

It is 12v system right now i have a res in the dizzy

If you still have a generator, you might wish to upgrade to an alternator first.

Jon.

Yes, the 58 car had a resistor--was located on the firewall,above and right of the steering column.
Whether the distributor body turns to advance/retard spark or the point plate or breaker cam relocates, the effect will be the same.The correct pertronics unit will work just like the point system regarding ignition advance/retard.
The Pertronics COIL and point replacement I just installed on a 58 Impala was to be used WITHOUT resistor.Using the Pertronics coil makes a difference in resistor use.Read the instructions carefully.
The original coil will need a resistor in the circuit.

Ok thanks the set i ordered was 751-1168? i think,, i plane on useing the stock coil i just bought it not knowing i was going to do the swap, , i will read and see if i need to keep what and loose what,,,

Thanks guys cant wait till i get driving again

Do yourself a favor and use a Pertronix coil.

Good luck- - - - -I'm a little spooky about installing a proprietary system that doesn't have replacement parts available at local parts stores.
Jerry

Ok guys i will let you all know how it goes

Thanks

So i do have a ballest resistor,,,,the instructions says to hook the black from kit to neg side of coil and the red to the 12 volt side of resistor, something dont seem right, right now i have a wire on my pos side of coil that comes from starter soild which is 12 volts when the key is on, i guess it might come from the resisitor? ?

the wire from the starter to the coil is to bypass the resistor for full voltage when cranking

Bill

ok so best to run red to pos and blk to neg of coil ,,that way i could go back if needed

No, they want the red on the switch side of the resistor NOT the coil side.

ok i see thats way i could simpley go back to normal

got it ,, just have to run the wire to the res on firewall

thanks

ok i got the kit in and i do have a res on fire wall its a white chalkey thing now what side is the hot,,o i just use a volt meter adn see the highest voltage with key on ?
[IMG]http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g407/robbie1965/PICT0123-1.jpg[/IMG]

I know you aren't supposed to use caps, but, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, they are very simple. But you have to follow them to the letter. If you have questions call their tech people they are very knowledgable.

Remove one of the wires and check with test light or volt meter to see which end it's fed from.
The resistor will show no voltage drop (same reading each end)if there is no load such as closed points--but now with no points there is no load until the electronics see a signal from the magnet ring/pickup coil as it passes.Then it turns the coil on momentarily and creates a spark when it is TURNED OFF.

got it ,, the one we did on my sons 65 289 it cam with a ring this one did't the instructions it didnt need one ,, now my question is after i find the feed on the resistor can i just add it to that side and leave the resistor in case i have to go back to points ???

thanks

Yes that connection to the switch side of the resistor is the correct place.Also you need to leave that wire from the starter solenoid in place--it provides 12 volts to the coil while cranking just like red58 said.

ok thanks ; i'll check the resaistor and find the hot wire with the key on and go there ,, i just add it to the terminal right and leave the other one ?

The resistor and coil are just like original---except the module (Pertronix) black wire is the only wire on the coil negative(-).
So the coil runs on reduced 12 volts from the resistor --switched to ground by the module black wire--the module needs 12 volts from the switch, by the red wire. When cranking, the coil input is increased to 12 volts by the wire from the starter solenoid.

ok guys i got the electronic kit in and i got it to run , not very good , i need to adjust the valves , the trouble i am having is with the BB lined up the rotor button dont really line up with the #1 plug ,, i did have trouble lining it up at first ,, i play with it and see ,, i know the valves need to be done again , i can do that for sure but the dizzy should line up
so back at it almost there i guess, i need to address the exhaust leak too , but will come later
thanks

Did you check the rotor button height?
I had a hell of a time installing pertronix in my mustang. It looked fine, but consistently failed to fire on several cylinders. It took me a couple frustrating weeks to figure it out. Turns out they can be sensitive to the precise height of the pertronix rotor on the distributor shaft. If magnets in the rotor misalign they fail to fire. In my case, five were fine, but three of the magnets inside the rotor ring must have been at slightly different heights, so they misfired, while others fired.
The solution was placing a garden hose washer under the rotor, which raised all the magnets into alignment.
Runs great now, and I would recommend, except Pertronix instructions and tech support were not helpful about this, though they seemed aware of the problem.

no ring in these , my problem is the dizzy is off its not pointing to #1 exactly its off a little

but thanks for giving me the heads up

Have you put a timing light on it?

My pertronix seems to run better timed advanced about 8 degrees.

For initial timing
Loosen the distributor clamp
And rotate the distributor body Untill the ball lines up with the pointer.

Then I believe you'll find it runs better advanced.

when you install the pertronix, your timing will be off, and you will have to readust it. Same for if you switch back. Also I'm not really understanding your statement, "the distributor isn't pointing to #1." I figure you mean the timing is off, which is what that condition would produce. You wouldn't have to worry about the rotor height, as that unit, (and I'm thinking most all of their new units) just pick up the high spots on the distributor cam.

What i am saying is with the BB on the mark and #1 piston the rotor button dont point to the #1 on the cap, , is that a big deal? ?. Its of a little kinda in the middle, roght now i have to turn the dizzy al the wayto get it torunbut it will, ,,ithink ineedto pull itup and try to reset maybe 1 notch? i dont: know, ,all i know is with the dizzy in the middle it wont run, ,,i am going to try to adjust today,
Thanks well get it

ok here is were i am at now ,,
i got it to run not good wont idle ,, i did the TDC and check the BB and all is good ,seemd like its still out of time, i have to turn the dizzy all the way to left to run ( what it will ) the button look ok when at TDc and the BB on the mark , it could be out 1 tooth i guess ,but would it still run ??? the valves sound good and they are getting good oil now on a good note ,, i know i am close ,but i dont know

thanks

It seems to me you have another problem.

There is no "one tooth off" to worry about when installing a distributor. You can adjust/rotate the distributor body - that is how you set timing.

If you have a vacuum gauge, attach it to the port on the intake manifold that would normally go the vacuum wiper motor. Then rotate the distributor body to a maximum vacuum reading with the engine at 500 rpm (clamp it tight in that location).

What is the vacuum reading?

Can you then adjust the carburetor to idle and then accelerate smoothly?

You can also use the vacuum gauge to adjust the carburetor: set the idle speed to about 500rpm and then adjust the mixture screw to maximum vacuum.

How did you go about adjusting your valves?

Check some simple things. Firing order? 153624 clockwise. Perhaps the wires were mixed up on the dizzy?

A few posts ago you mentioned an exhaust leak. Could you possibly have an intake leak also (vacuum) ??

yeah i might but stil i have some popiing back ,, i'll check the firing order would it start with 1 mixed

I'm a little confused by what you mean by turn all the way to the left.

Doses the grease cup hit the engine? Is something else keeping you from rotating it.

It will run with a wire crossed. Not very good, I did that once.

Hang in there, this can be a bit frustrating

No the vac advance port hits the motor mount,, i know before all this the dizzy was in the middle i mean the small marks on the mounting brackets was stright across,, and now ther not,, i belive i will start all over, pull the dizzy and reinsert it and then rewire the cap in firing order, i will check the vac lines for leaks,
Thanks for helping i know its hard to help like this

I'm not familiar with your year truck. But I believe your Vac advance should not be turning or hitting anything when your adjusting your distributor.

On my year truck for initial timing you set the octane sensor at 0 and Tighten the bolt down HERE

then if you need to adjust the distributor your loosen the collar HERE and turn the distributor to adjust.(this is how I advanced my distributor for the pertronix system on my truck)

others will soon correct me If I have this wrong.

can you post a pic of your set up?

Dads50 is right. The octane selector is for fine adjustments, the pinch clamp bolt is for course adjustments.

Its a car, biscayne sorry
Yeah you are right, but i have never adjusted the second screw, would i have to? i should just drop it in, it was fine when removed. now on the first bolt is it normaly in middle,there is a small line on both pcs, good info ther i never knew about the small screw at all, , so whats the best way to adjust the bolt first?

Thanks

I guess because i installed the elect points i have to reajust the whole dizzy?

Thanks

Consider moving the wires in the cap one hole to let the distributor body be in the proper range.
If the body needs to move clockwise, the wire relocation will be counterclock.
If one hole movement won't allow you to get in range, then we'll have to relocate the shaft one tooth.