The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Experience with clear coating wood bed?

I've read a few previous posts and even looked at the Mar-K web site..

I was leaning toward stain then clear coat on the wood (oak) on my 1950 3600. I live in the north west and we do get our share of rain. The truck is outside most of the time. Now I am thinking about painting the wood because it might hold up better????

Anyone have any experience they can share with me?

Thanks.

I am in the NW too. I restored a 53 years ago when I lived in Calif. I could find no clear outdoor finish that will last. The wood moves too much. I think a closed grain wood would hold up better than oak. I am making my 46 as a daily driver. I am going to paint the wood with a high quality primer and finish - water based paint. I will only use Kelly-Moore or Sherwin Williams Paint.It has out lasted my neighbors homes 3 to one over the other local brands. I am putting in Stainless strips to spruce the bed up since it will be painted. I am a wood worker and have never seen a clear finish last outdoors. The NW is brutal.

Thank you for the feedback.

Well, I already have the wood. From what I've read on the Mar K web site (they did lots of testing), painting the wood holds up the best, but everything will need maintenance. I also have the strips that are steel. The parts on at in 'body shop jail' with the truck to follow in a few weeks. It's still a toss up as to what do to. My orginal plan was to prep the wood, stain in, then clear coat it so it can be cleaned and waxed, etc...

I used an exterior, satin coat Varathane on my Oak. My truck rarely sees the rain, but 4 years of sun has caused a little bit of checking. Its really not a big deal to remove the boards and refinish if necessary. I think MarK also did some tests with Valspar marine varnish that worked OK ? Not sure how a " clearcoat" finish would stand up on wood.

I don't know about a clear coat. Something like Thompsons water sealer might work well. May not give it a glossy appearance, but should protect the wood.

Minwax Marine Spar Urethane, use at least 8 coats, sanding between coats. I did mine about 5 years ago, after removing a clearcoat that only lasted 2 years. Still looks good, though I do have a couple of spots that need redone, mainly on the edges.

I have not done the bed of my truck, but I do have some experience in woodworking and hardwood floor installation.

If you are going to have any wood that is exposed to the elements you have to urethane every side of the board. This will help to prevent the effects that humidity has on the entire board, not just the top. It is the same concept as protecting the underside of sheet metal to prevent rust.

I have had luck with the Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, I use it on outdoor furniture and high wear wood pieces (bar tops). I have not had any major problems with expansion or contraction of the outdoor wood pieces.

I don't know why you would want to stain oak but once you stain it, it becomes hard to sand the top finish. If you break through when sanding you end up with a big white streak.

I used white ash and I did use stain under the clear finish. I don't leave the truck outside but the sunlight has turned the golden oak stain slightly off color.

What Redleg said is true. Both sides of wood need to be treated the same if you expect the wood to be stable.
It's why on old furniture that had veneer on the top you also saw the reverse side also veneered.
If you seal one side you should also seal the other side.

Dan

Lots to learn on this one. I was planning on staining to have a darker finish. I'm not sure but think automotive clear coat is a urethane? And yes, the body shop will apply it to all sides and serveral coats.

Try using a fine metal wool instead of sand paper. Also when mixing your varnish, make sure not to mix in any air bubbles. This will keep little blimmishes on your wooden. And if possible, varnish in a totally dust free environment.

Stain or no stain, it's your truck. Either way will not affect the way the varnish/varathane adheres to the wood! The biggest problem people run into is not spending enough time to do the job right. Everyone makes sure they coat the top and bottom, dont forget the sides - but make sure the ENDS are coated too!
The ends of a wood board will suck many more time the moisture than the top,bottom or side will. that said, if you put 4-5 coats on the top and bottom then put 8-10 on the ends. Follow this and your bed will look great for years.
As far as automotive clear on wood, will it work - yes. Will it hold up - no.

Greetings;
I just bought some red oak for my 53. The boards will be laminated together and it was recommended to try a lap joint.
I was thinking of using epoxy for the laminating. You need only about 14 lbs of pressure. Due the ends really well and then use a good quality marine varnish up to four coats over the epoxy undercoat. My boards are 7/8" same as the plywood that was in the panel. I kept the old pieces for a template. You will have to slide in each side and then place the last board in to rest on the machined laps. I was planning on a paint uncoating on the underside. Hope this helps. cheers

Epoxy doesn't generally adhere very well to oak, as the oak is too acidic. It also isn't as UV stable as the manufacturer would have you believe.

AD lifesupport, if you are thinking of edge glueing all the boards together, to make one giant board, I would advise against it. (If that's what you are meaning) The boards will swell and move quite a bit more than you might expect.

Paint on the underside is a good choice. But there is nothing like seeing a truck up on the hoist with varnish underneath!!!! Hahaha.

If the truck is exposed to the weather, automotive clear will crack right away, and so will urethane.

Traditional varnish (like Epifanes) works very well. That's all I use for marine brightwork. Follow the directions, and stick on 10 coats, scuff sanding between each coat.

I would shy away from using steel wool on oak, any steel left in or on the surface will cause the oak to turn dark (from grey to black), as it reacts with the tannins present in the oak. Bronze wool is great, though it does cost more.

That's some of my 2¢.

Epoxy doesn't generally adhere very well to oak, as the oak is too acidic. It also isn't as UV stable as the manufacturer would have you believe.

AD lifesupport, if you are thinking of edge glueing all the boards together, to make one giant board, I would advise against it. (If that's what you are meaning) The boards will swell and move quite a bit more than you might expect.

Paint on the underside is a good choice. But there is nothing like seeing a truck up on the hoist with varnish underneath!!!! Hahaha.

If the truck is exposed to the weather, automotive clear will crack right away, and so will urethane.

Traditional varnish (like Epifanes) works very well. That's all I use for marine brightwork. Follow the directions, and stick on 10 coats, scuff sanding between each coat.

I would shy away from using steel wool on oak, any steel left in or on the surface will cause the oak to turn dark (from grey to black), as it reacts with the tannins present in the oak. Bronze wool is great, though it does cost more.

That's some of my 2¢.

Well, I give up.

Epoxy doesn't generally adhere very well to oak, as the oak is too acidic. It also isn't as UV stable as the manufacturer would have you believe.

AD lifesupport, if you are thinking of edge glueing all the boards together, to make one giant board, I would advise against it. (If that's what you are meaning) The boards will swell and move quite a bit more than you might expect.

Paint on the underside is a good choice. But there is nothing like seeing a truck up on the hoist with varnish underneath!!!! Hahaha.

If the truck is exposed to the weather, automotive clear will crack right away, and so will urethane.

Traditional varnish (like Epifanes) works very well. That's all I use for marine brightwork. Follow the directions, and stick on 10 coats, scuff sanding between each coat.

I would shy away from using steel wool on oak, any steel left in or on the surface will cause the oak to turn dark (from grey to black), as it reacts with the tannins present in the oak. Bronze wool is great, though it does cost more.

That's some of my 2¢.

Okay, I'll make with the typey typey again.

Oak is generally too acidic to glue with epoxy, and one giant board will move quite a bit, in fact, a glue up that large in flat sawn oak might shrink and expand more than an inch and a half between the seasons.

I've always had great results using Epifanes marine varnish. Just follow the directions, and stick on 10 coats, you can't beat it, it always remains flexible, and will stick to yellow cedar, or teak.


There's my 2¢. Sorry about all the messages that didn't work, I dunno why that happened.

Try the submit button Mr. Lang.

In a word.... No.