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#888085 10/09/2012 6:00 AM
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New Guy
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Has anyone added rack and pinion steering to the solid axle front end on the 55-59 series trucks?

Jimmy56 #888130 10/09/2012 10:53 AM
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Probably some where, buts its a very bad idea unless you do some very good engineering`. The problem is where the rack hooks to the steering shaft. The stub shaft on the rack is not made to take a lot of movement and since the rack is bolted to the axle and the column is fixed to the cab, there is a lot of movement between the two. You have to come up with a way for the end of the column to pivot and twist while staying connected to the rack when the suspension moves. You will have in and out plus up and down movement all while still having twisting turning movement.

If you bolt the rack to the frame, you still have a lot of movement on the tie-rod ends, way more then designed for since the truck is much bigger and heavier then most racks are designed for.

Joe

Joe H #888141 10/09/2012 11:15 AM
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
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There are no R & P steering units on factory trucks that I know of, for the above reason, plus, are any really strong enough for a truck?


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Jimmy56 #888149 10/09/2012 11:38 AM
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Look at the uni-steer rack. It's a good option for any straight axle.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
Jimmy56 #888153 10/09/2012 12:00 PM
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'Bolter
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Like Joe said, not a good idea. Besides the steering shaft input issues, it would add exsess unsprung weight to an already heavy axle, causing ride and handling issues. The Unisteer might be a viable option, as it essentially mounts where the steering box and drag link reside, and do not mount to the axle. All the Unisteer rack I saw on their site were for pre-war Fords, though, which are faily light compared to the 3500# plus Task Force trucks.
Just wondering, why are you considering putting a rack on the solid axle? Seems uneccesary, as the stock Saginaw steering box is very reliable, the same basic design is used to this day on 3/4 ton and larger trucks, plus many virtally all oval track race cars.


Bill Burmeister
LONGBOX55 #888336 10/09/2012 9:50 PM
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Would like to add power steering so the wife can drive it also. I will probably go with an ifs kit in the future

Jimmy56 #888349 10/09/2012 10:15 PM
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'Bolter
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In that case, you may want to consider doing the IFS and power steering at the same time. That way, you can get the shole steering and suspension setup in one shot, rather than having to completely redo it, especially since an IFS sterring system will be very different from the original beam axle.


Bill Burmeister
Jimmy56 #888595 10/10/2012 11:27 PM
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'Bolter
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If your looking for a rack and pinion google "No Limit Rack and Pinion" or check out this site: http://www.nolimitparts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PS-SA-

I havnt done this myself but have read up on it quite a bit because im in the same boat looking for a power steering setup for my 57. It mounts to the axle and has a collapsible steering shaft that connects the R/P to the steering column to account for the up and down movement of the axle while your driving. Everything i've read has been pretty mixed opinions. Theres a lot of people that have used it and say that it works great and there are some that say no. IMHO i dont see a problem with the setup. Its a setup that was specifically designed for these pickups as well as fords of the same era. As far as it not being strong enough i wouldn't worry about it most truck now days use racks to steer an theyre much heavier. I know there's a guy on this site that has installed this setup an you can probably find him by doing a search.
There's always the toyota power steering box and the saginaw you can look into.

Jimmy56 #890657 10/19/2012 10:41 PM
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'Bolter
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I bought this power R&P for my '56 3100 project ...I have it installed and it looks good, but have not driven it yet...slow rodstoration.

http://www.performanceonline.com/Rack-and-Pinion-c-1339/

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Hughesville, MD
Jimmy56 #890689 10/20/2012 8:05 AM
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'Bolter
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You know, that just looks unsafe to me. I can't see having the steering rack floating with the axle while the column does all the moving.

The lines that provide the fluid are constantly moving, the column sliding in and out to compensate for the axle movement.

Just looks like a good way to get hurt when something fails. The sliding column would be the weak link.

I would rather add a power steering box to the frame I think.

Jimmy56 #891634 10/24/2012 4:54 AM
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To make the steering effort easier for your wife till you decide whether to go IFS why not use a power assist ram? By FAR the easiest to install, has a good feel, and was used on many 4wd trucks, Chevy cars through 1964, Corvettes till the 80's, Mustangs till 1970, and construction/farm equipment yet today. No steering geometry problems because you change NOTHING. The ram bolts to a bracket on the frame on one end and the tie rod on the other. The control valve goes on the end of the draglink and that's it. Pitman arm, draglink, and tie rod are unchanged from factory geometry.


Evan
Jimmy56 #891669 10/24/2012 10:29 AM
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There's a reason power assist rams were discontinued. Sure, they were used in chevy full size cars to 64, but they are notorious for leaking and are a bit 'notchy' and are typically replaced by a modern power assist box. A rack or modern box are the way to go.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
Jimmy56 #891683 10/24/2012 11:02 AM
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I, for one, will definitely be changing my steering system, with or without the solid front axle. It's not a reliability question, as someone else here brought up. It's the bump steer. It's horrible. There are a couple of ways you can reduce bump steer, but the simplest way is probably by using a rack and pinion.

I have no doubt the rack and pinion shown would work. There really isn't a lot to them. Having a way to mount it is the main thing. Yes, I am certain it would go a long way to make our AD trucks a lot more sure-footed on bumpy roads and highways.
An independent front suspension would be ideal, but changing out the steering system would help.


52 GMC 3/4 ton pickup
68 Big Block Vette
68 455 Firebird
Jimmy56 #891752 10/24/2012 3:58 PM
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My 58 still has the straight axle. No power steering. My truck drives fine, and I don't have any problems with "bump steer".

If someone is having issues with "bump steer" something is loose, worn out, or out of adjustment.

It can be a bit tiring trying to turn the wheel at a stop, but once I get moving just a bit it eases up.

My wife drives it and I know not to mess with her now. grin

Jimmy56 #891878 10/24/2012 10:57 PM
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With correct stock steering geometry, there will be no bump steer. Bump steer is caused by faulty steering geometry. Going to a rack will not fix that, nor will adding power steering.
On the ram assist power steering, while it keeps the stock steering essentially intact, exept for addition of the ram and the different drag link, a major "against" on it will be the cost. Last time I priced one, the kit was over $700, and that did not include a power steering pump.


Bill Burmeister
Jimmy56 #894107 11/03/2012 2:06 AM
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Hi all, I'm mew to the forums.
I bought a 51 3100 several months ago and am full of questions.
Right now I am trying to find out which type of later model power steering box I can use? I'm laying the groundwork for a drivetrain upgrade.
power fr disc is next.
I picked up a 350 4 bolt, a turbo 400 & a 12 bolt rear for her. See where I'm headed?
I'm an old gearhead & I'm having a blast!


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