The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay The Ole 12 volt conversion

I thought I did every thing correct. However my truck wont start, and my ballast resistor is getting sizzling hot. I ran my DA plug red wire to my batt wire. I have the white wire from the DA plug connected with the ignition wire at my ballast resistor. And of course the other side of the resistor is the 12v coil. Prior to this I had my truck running running off of a 12 volt battery. The alternator was not plugged in. I had no issues. Possibly the DA plug turned around??? Both my guages and my lights come on.
I already fried my point once enough experimenting.
Also the alternator I am using has a 3rd wire on the back... perhaps for power while the truck is running, and only when the engine is on?
If I remember right the alternator I amusing is a 45Amp from a 79 GM car.

One more thing, before I acually wired in the alternator I was using the 12V battery to move my truck aroung the yard. And at that point there was no ballast resistor in place.

Sounds good to me...let me ask a few questions.

Sounds like you have an internal regulator alternator. If so, you should have #1 terminal "white wire" going to an ignition source. Connecting it to to the terminal on the ballast resistor is O.K. as long as it's connected to the side where the wire is coming from the key switch and NOT the side going to the coil + terminal. The RED wire of the DA Plug should be connected to Terminal #2 and go to the battery. I normally just jump this wire to the B+ terminal on the alternator and run one wire back to the battery terminal on the starter.

Here are a few check to make:

Be sure you have the wire going from the ballast resistor going to the positive terminal on the coil.

Make sure the ignition wire from the distributor is connected to the side of the ballast that is coming from the key switch.

I'm wondering if your points are grounding some how now and that's why the ballast resistor is smoking. Why don't you disconnect the DA Plug on the alternator just in case for this check. Then turn the key on and check for current at the Ignition side of the ballast resistor. Then have someone crank the motor over and see if you still have current while cranking. I'm not sure what type of key switch you have but I've see a few where their was no current when cranking and it would never have started. If that part is o.k. then pull the distributor cap and check for current down at the points or see if they create a spark at the point when the open.

I wish I was their.....I get a kick out of solving these type of problems

I had a type o their I meant to say to make sure the wire coming from the alternator #1 terminal was connected on the same side of the ballast resistor as the wire coming from the ignition switch......

I think I got it figured out. I always figure the key switch was for engine on/off. And the foot pedal did the action of the normal start. However if I turn the key back a bit, the engine will still run, however if I stall out the motor, the engine stops, and there will be no power at the coil. I also burned out my coil finding this out. Reason it would not start. Now my turn signals wont work. Figure that has to do with the 6V flasher probably burnt out with the 12V. I never noticed this before. Prior to this I did not notice, if the healights are on, should the front parking lights be on as well? If I pull out the light switch 1/2 way out, all parking lights are on. If I pull it out all the way, I get the rear parking lights and head lights on, but parking lights off.
Do they make a Driving a Old Chevy Truck for Idiots guide book?

Put in a 12V flasher, all is well.

Lee,

I'm beginning to think we could form a local chapter here in the twin cities. I'm in Vadnais Heights, I know another (earlier) bolter in Lake Elmo, and two in the Lakeville / Eagan area.

How far along are you?

Carl

I am at a cross road. I am trying to decide if I should keep my 1 ton or find the prefered 1/2 ton. The biggest thing my truck needs right now is front end work so it will drive down the road straight. I have quite a bit of play in the front end. This 12V thing is 1 thing I wanted to finish before I tried to see how much I could get for it.