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| | | Forums66 Topics128,047 Posts1,055,532 Members48,424 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 34 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 34 | I spent four hours with a mechanic yesterday trying to install a new ignition switch in my 55. The old switch did not allow the key to be in the up/down position and when I turned off the truck the starter would engage for a split second. At eighty dollars an hour it is expensive and especially when nothing was accomplished. The new switch would not work. The new switch will allow the truck to crank, however, when it cranks it will not fire. The old switch cranks and fires, but, the problem with the starter engaging remains. The mechanic says, when he unplugs the wire that goes to the gauges, windshield wipers, and fuel pump the starter does not engage when it is turned off. He unpluged each fuse to each of these three circuits and the starter still engages. I need the gauges, although the speedometer and the fuel gauge do not work and I will need the windshield wipers when I get some. Can I wire the gauges and wipers to a different circuit and unplug the wire from the ignition switch so I don't get the starter to engage when I turn the truck off? I'm having a tough time with this truck!!!! Can someone please help? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy PeteOL, first some questions, is your truck a 55 1st series, or a 55 2nd series? Is it a six volt, or a twelve volt? Is your truck a factory automatic? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,756 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,756 | First, you need to find a real mechanic, not a parts swapper. There should be two circuits that get voltage with the switch in the "run" position, one for ignition, and another for "accessory". Depending on the year and application of the switch, there might also be an "IGN 2" position on the switch that operates only with the switch in the "start" position. The circuits such as the wipers and fuel gauge, etc. need to be wired to the ACC position, with only the circuit to the upstream side of the ballast resistor going to the IGN 1 terminal. With the switch in the "start" position, only the starter and the downstream (coil) side of the ballast resistor, (connected to the IGN 2 terminal) will be hot. When the start switch is released, the IGN 1 and the ACC terminal will have voltage. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 34 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 34 | Hi,
The truck is a second series 55. It has a twelve volt system and it has a turbo 350 automatic transmission. The prior owner replaced the wire harness and for what I know, it appears to have been wired OK. I was not aware of this fact when I purchased the truck, but, it appears to have been a parts truck for various different trucks.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Pete | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | If it's been wired by someone else I would do more than check if it appears to be wired okay, I would check all circuits and make sure everything is done correctly, as a small electrical gremlin can cause you big headaches or even burn down your truck. | | |
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