The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop timing my engine

my head is still off now so what the best way to time my motor ???
thanks

considering 'timing' has to do with the relation between the pistons and valves the best way would probably be to finish assembling the engine and then follow the procedure in the shop manual

Bill

In the mean time you can rotate the crank placing the #1 piston at the top and making sure you are at top dead center in relation to any timing marks. Than after replacing your cylinder head, dry set the valves always coming back to the timing mark.Final timing is completed after start up.

The timing marks on the flywheel will align twice- - -once when both valves are closed, and again between the exhaust and intake strokes when the exhaust is closing and the intake is opening. Put a couple of pushrods into the lifters, and watch their movement as you turn the engine by hand. When both lifters are at the bottom of their travel and the BB in the flywheel aligns with the pointer, you can time the distributor to fire the #1 spark plug. It's a lot simpler with the head on, but it's not absolutey necessary.
Jerry

so i'll add 2 push rods into #1 and turn the engine untill the piston it TDC and the rods are down ,,, then when i set the dizzy the rotor button should be pointing at # 1 wire on cap ?

Right- - - -just pick out a distributor cap tower and call it #1, then time the distributor to that position. Follow along in a clockwise rotation with 5-3-6-2-4. Some purists will insist on having a specific spot for the #1 position on the cap, but as long as the firing order is correct, any position can be called #1.
Jerry

Ok i see so any spot can be #1 as long as they are in order humm thanks

whats the best way to put the harmonic balancer on i was told to get it started and use a large socket or something like that to knock it on ,, knock it untill it stops ,, wont that hurt the crank spancing when knocking like that ??

I typically heat the balancer in the oven for 30 minutes at 200 degrees. The heat expands it and helps to press it on. Others have drilled and tapped the crank so you can use an installation tool. IF you do use a block and hammer, be very careful so you don't mess up the thrust bearings...

drill and tap the end of the crankshaft and use a harmonic balancer installation tool

Drill and tap the crankshaft ONLY if your good with a drill and tap!

The mach shop told me to knock it on, , i am afraid to,, i could mess the bearings up?, i could heat it up i guess, does that really help?

Put a little grease on the snout before you put the balancer on, that will help.

i was going to ask that i didnt know it that would make it slide off ,,, what about a little silicone ?? that way it will stick

Sure .... That will work too.

no silicone, as you push it on you will curl up those little blobs of rubber which will end up inside your engine. use a light oil, and heat it up. It should go on very easily, I've only had 3 or 4 of them off, but in each case my concern was it coming off rather than any problem putting them on. Even if you do end up pounding it on, keep in mind they have been doing it that way for about 70 years. Use a little common sense, if it isn't going don't just keep pounding, no really, it should go on pretty easily.

Two of my three drill/tap guide kits have found their way home, and the other one is supposed to be on the way. They include an installation tool. If you choose to do a drill and tap job on the crankshaft, DO NOT try to use the center bolt to pull the balancer on- - - -you'll strip the thread. The thread should be used to bolt the installation tool onto the end of the crankshaft, and the big thread on the installer takes the thrust. Using a little plain old motor oil on the crank snout is all that's needed for lube, but be sure to file or sand away any high spots or burrs on the mating surfaces first. Once the balancer is on, you can put a center bolt and a big washer into the hole with a little blue LocTite on the thread, or just use the press fit to keep it on- - - -your choice. Millions of stovebolts and early V-8's ran hundreds of millions of miles without the balancer being bolted on. Once half a dozen accessories started getting driven by the balancer, then the engineers put a center bolt in the end of the crank.

I've had some really bad experiences with loaning out my drill/tap/installer kits, so if anybody else wants to borrow one the deposit is going to be a lot more, and there's going to be a time limit on its use. I've got four of the kits made up now, so if anybody's interested, drop me a PM or an email.
Jerry

i could just clean up the shaft and pully and use a little oil and drive it up on there untill it bottoms out ??? use a dead blow hammer ??

A BIG dead blow hammer works, but I prefer a plain old short sledge, at least a 3-pounder. Run a couple of short bolts snug into the puller holes to lock the halves of the balancer together and prevent damage to the rubber. Use a block of hardwood like red oak or hard maple between the hammer and the balancer to keep from scarring up the face of the balancer. Heat the balancer hub with a Propane torch until a drop of water sizzles when it's dripped onto the hub, and install the balancer with a series of short, firm blows until it bottoms out against the timing gear. That's how it was done for several decades, on a LOT of engines, without damaging the thrust bearings. Just don't be timid- - - -HIT IT!
Jerry

Lol thanks , ill get this evening