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continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,298 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 |
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,339 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,339 | Yesterday I picked up a radio head for a late 30s radio that I will use to turn on and off the modern stereo in the glove box. | | | | Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 16 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 16 | I installed the Lokar shifter and then modified my wiring harness. Now I have to figure out how to make it all fit and still look good. Going to mount the engine control module abouve the steering wheel along with 4 relays and 7 fuses for the 5.3. http://i960.photobucket.com/albums/ae90/scrambler45/100_1668_zps7d7bed16.jpg | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Bedrail Headaches: After sanding over the urethane and bringing the redwood back to original I put the first coat back on last night and then this afternoon sanded with 320 grit and put on the 2nd coat. Tomorrow I'll ruff up with the 320 and put on the 3rd coat. Then Tuesday night I'll flip them over and start on the other side. When I finish with the side rails I'll take care of the side posts. Hopefully I'll be finished by Saturday.
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 188 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 188 | Got the old generator pulled and getting ready to put in the alternator to convert to 12 volts. Was able to get 3 of 4 of the nuts off of the speedo before getting frustrated and calling it a day. Big hands and arms don't fit too well in small places. Fought another battle to try and get the key cylinder out to replace it. It's still winning that fight every time we go at it....But I will win the war...  | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Got the old generator pulled and getting ready to put in the alternator to convert to 12 volts. Was able to get 3 of 4 of the nuts off of the speedo before getting frustrated and calling it a day. Big hands and arms don't fit too well in small places. Fought another battle to try and get the key cylinder out to replace it. It's still winning that fight every time we go at it....But I will win the war...  Atta boy, bring out the cannons!
Last edited by BIG CHEVY 3600; 09/24/2012 9:47 AM.
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 |
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 695 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 695 | OK for my '59 project, NEW Window Glass and Glass Setting Tape is on the way! WOOP WOOP! HOLLA! I also ordered the set of barrel nuts and screws for the lower window channel assemblies and sanded the assemblies to bare metal and painted them. I have my lower window seals at the aready... now I'm anxiously awaiting arrival of those parts. I still need to install my door weatherstripping in the meanwhile. I picked up the adhesive for that, yesterday after work. Getting these doors completed will be a major victory for me. Jerry | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 695 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 695 | My new door window glasses and setting tape arrived yesterday for my '59. I was really hoping for the best but preparing for the worst as I've heard and read that installing the glass can be a bear of a project. It actually took me about an hour to do both windows completely. They really look great in my newly painted frames!  I'm about ready to install them into the doors... Hopefully, this weekend. Jerry | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 402 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 402 | Ordered my windshield rubber! I found some front spindle bolts from Paul, and looked at it. 1936 wrecker http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/baldybenny/library/ 1936 1.5 wrecker,1937 gmc coe,1939 Chevrolet coe,1942 4x4 coe, 1942 coe,1946 dump,1947 2 ton dump,another 1947 2 ton dump,1950 coe,1967 c30,1937 cat 22,1936 Chevrolet 5 window foremans coupe, 1914 ford speedster.
| | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 20 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 20 | Went down to where she's stored...cleaned her out again. Took couple hundred pics, scraped off as much crap and gunk off the engine & underside as i could. Next week Im out there, Im gonna pressure wash the engine, and clean & drain the fluids..see if I can get her to fire up.
1954 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN Took me 20 years, but I got it! Had to take a couple steps back, but I am back to work on it. First to get her up and running. Then Ill worry bout the body, But man I am sure getting tired of hearing "How much you wanna sell that for, name your price, everything is for sale" Nope, not this one. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Finally finished the bedrails, pics below. Finished
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 436 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 436 | Well, I got the exhaust done on the '62 yesterday. Now it's street legal again after 5 years of sitting in the side yard.
I took it out for a spin and it died on the freeway. Towed it home last night and got started working on it this morning. Ten minutes into the job, I found the problem. The condensor wire and the coil wire had come off where they tie together at the points. Fixed that, then took the wife out for beakfast. Before we had gone 2 miles, it died again, same issue. Fixed it again and it died a second time before we could get back to the house.
Now I'm frustrated with it. so we leave it at the house and go back out to get the breakfast we wanted. I got to thinking about it while we were out. I seemed to remember there used to be a small screw that held those wires to the points, not just the breaker spring holding pressure on them. So I removed the plastice insulator, drilled it for a 6-32 screw and reinstalled everything using a fiber washer to insulat the nut from the breaker plate.
Now it runs fine. I was able to put about 35 miles on it today taking my daughter to work with no ignition issues.
Now I just need to solve the overheating problem. Might need to get a new radiator. The old 235 radiator probably isn't big enough for the 327. Well, one issue at a time.
Last edited by 62Stick; 09/30/2012 11:38 PM.
| | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 |
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 695 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 695 | On my '59 doors, since the window regulators, vent window assemblies and door windows were a monster task to remove, I expected assembly to REALLY be a job. I didn't have a reference on steps for assembly but after a few tries, I got it down! The passenger door is done and I'm very pleased with it. The driver door is next and now that I know the pattern, it should be a breeze! Jerry | | | | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 129 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 129 | New wheel cylinders and seals on the 1940 WB 1-1/2 Ton. Man those rear seals were tough to get out! Also working on installing the missing center grille baffle to the back side of the grille and upper baffle. | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 436 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 436 | Thanks to the work I did to the '62 over the weekend, I was able to drive it in to work today and show off the truck everyone has heard me talking about. Now they don't have to just look at pictures any more. This is the first time it's been here in over 5 years. Most of the people here don't remember it coming in before. | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 back yard wrench turner | back yard wrench turner Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 | I installed mud flaps and a dealer emblem from the original dealer that sold this truck when it was new. The dealer has been out of business many years. I found the dealers nephew and he had these items. emblem mud flaps Wayne1938 1-Ton Farm Truck-30- Stovebolt Gallery ForumsWhen I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it! | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 |
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 |
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | John, Your progress reminds me of my own through the past 6 years. Your attention to the right details will serve your project well.
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 402 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 402 | I finished the drivers side oversized(.020) king pin on my 36 wrecker,came out nice! I used the spindle bolts from a 39 and they were 1/2 instead of 7/16,much stronger than what i had.Just had to drill out all the holes and it was a great fix, now to do the other side. http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/baldybenny/library/ 1936 1.5 wrecker,1937 gmc coe,1939 Chevrolet coe,1942 4x4 coe, 1942 coe,1946 dump,1947 2 ton dump,another 1947 2 ton dump,1950 coe,1967 c30,1937 cat 22,1936 Chevrolet 5 window foremans coupe, 1914 ford speedster.
| | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | Got my '52 back from medial blaster. Lots of raw metal trying to re-rust. Got the frame epoxy primed and finish painted. Now starting to get the suspension/axles out from under it to start rebuilding of those items. Nice to see the frame free of rust and painted. Will start priming cab, fenders, bed, running boards, etc. tonight.
Next night...got the cab in primer. Lots of pin holes and sheet metal to repair. Next up, rear fenders, cab sides, hood, and running boards.
Third night (well afternoon/early evening before dark): Got the hood halves, seat springs, seat frame, bed sides, running boards, and one side of door epoxy primed before running out of primer...bummer. Still have rear fenders and second side of doors to go...
Last edited by DavidF; 10/05/2012 9:01 AM.
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 695 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 695 | I completed the doors project for the '59. WHEW! I'm all pumped up over that victory. Besides the doors, the next big problem area of this truck rebuild that's been heavy on my mind is the front fenders... so that's next. I can totally DO this!  Jerry | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 | Two weekends ago, with the new fuel system in and everything running great, my girlfriend and I hit the final Chuck-a-Burger Drive-In cruise night of the summer. On the way there the steering mast bearing fell apart. Finally got it all pulled apart last weekend. New one should be delivered today and I hope to have it installed tonight! http://rustyfiftyone.com/2012/10/04/mastbearingectomy/ | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | is that screw rubbing the shaft? ...pic... might be what caused your mast bearing to fail? | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 |
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 |
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 | is that screw rubbing the shaft? ...pic... might be what caused your mast bearing to fail? No, those are the column shift collar screws and they're close but they don't hit. They're also an inch or two further down the column than the bottom of the mast jacket and actually stopped the bearing assembly and spring from sliding further down. What I believe happened was that the material between the jacket and bearing assembly deteriorated and the tension of the spring pushed the bearing portion out of the jacket over time. | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | Even after having my tranny in the burb reworked to prevent it, it still occasionally jumped out of 3rd gear. The rebuilder told me it must be in the linkage or the pilot bushing. Now I didn't give much credence to the pilot bushing theory because GMCs use a pilot bearing. And I knew the shifter was going all the way into 3rd. But after it jumped out 4 times in 300 miles this weekend I decided to take one more look last night. I pulled the floor cover and started studying.
I found that when it was fully engaged into 3rd, the shift rod was fouling hard against the 1st-reverse rod. Jiggling the 1st reverse rod would kick the 3rd lever out of it's lock detent. Of course when that happens on the road it's only a matter of time before it jumps out of gear.
I tweeked the 2nd-3rd arm to allow clearance. I haven't test driven it yet but I feel confident I've solved that problem.
Then I moved to the hood latch. I had trouble opening the hood at a car show Saturday. It has been hard to open for a while and I put white grease on it recently but it hardly helped. Last night, after struggling to open the hood again, I pulled the latch to try to fix it. I couldn't find anything obviously wrong with it except it has years of dust caked into the grease on the underside. Rather than clean it up I installed a cleaned and painted latch I had in my swap meet inventory. It opens like a new one now.
When we were in Kansas City my Suburban started an annoying metal to metal squeak. We traced it to the driver's door. But I could not find any signs of metal to metal in the door jamb or on the door. Yesterday I finally figured it out. The screws holding the bottom of the window track were missing and the rack was rubbing inside the door. Of course I had to pull the door panel to fix it. While I was in there I fixed another problem.
I had previously put a locking button in the driver's door handle but it quit locking. So I pulled that out. I discovered the keeper that holds the springs in had broken, one end of it was bent up, keeping the springs from pushing the pins into position. So while I had it out I re-pinned it to work with the ignition key. I didn't like the idea of having a separate key anyhow. I installed new springs as required and a new keeper.
I think we're now ready for the Lone Star Loop 1000 mile trip coming up in a couple of weeks. | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | No, those are the column shift collar screws and they're close but they don't hit. They're also an inch or two further down the column than the bottom of the mast jacket and actually stopped the bearing assembly and spring from sliding further down. ok I'm a floor shift guy the screw looked long in the pic, like it would rub the shaft. my bad  | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 | No, those are the column shift collar screws and they're close but they don't hit. They're also an inch or two further down the column than the bottom of the mast jacket and actually stopped the bearing assembly and spring from sliding further down. ok I'm a floor shift guy the screw looked long in the pic, like it would rub the shaft. my bad  The screw you're looking at in that pic is not original and is actually a tad longer than the other one which is original but it doesn't hit the mast. | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | The screw you're looking at in that pic is not original and is actually a tad longer than the other one which is original but it doesn't hit the mast. My thought was that the screw was rubbing against the steering shaft not the bearing mast. and the shaft was applying side pressure on your bearing mast causing it to fail. | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 | Hadn't thought of that... I planed on replacing both screws eventually anyway, perhaps I'll make a stop by Ace Hardware on the way home tonight. | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 402 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 402 | I got a 1947 dump bed home from Montana! http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/baldybenny/library/ 1936 1.5 wrecker,1937 gmc coe,1939 Chevrolet coe,1942 4x4 coe, 1942 coe,1946 dump,1947 2 ton dump,another 1947 2 ton dump,1950 coe,1967 c30,1937 cat 22,1936 Chevrolet 5 window foremans coupe, 1914 ford speedster.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 937 | steering shaft not the bearing mast. Just realized, what you're calling the steering shaft, I'm calling the steering mast. Either way, there are no rub marks on the pole that connects the steering wheel to the steering box.  The way I was understanding it ... Column > Mast Jacket > Mast Bearing > Mast/Shaft | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Even after having my tranny in the burb reworked to prevent it, it still occasionally jumped out of 3rd gear. The rebuilder told me it must be in the linkage or the pilot bushing. Now I didn't give much credence to the pilot bushing theory because GMCs use a pilot bearing. And I knew the shifter was going all the way into 3rd. But after it jumped out 4 times in 300 miles this weekend I decided to take one more look last night. I pulled the floor cover and started studying.
I found that when it was fully engaged into 3rd, the shift rod was fouling hard against the 1st-reverse rod. Jiggling the 1st reverse rod would kick the 3rd lever out of it's lock detent. Of course when that happens on the road it's only a matter of time before it jumps out of gear.
I tweeked the 2nd-3rd arm to allow clearance. I haven't test driven it yet but I feel confident I've solved that problem.
Then I moved to the hood latch. I had trouble opening the hood at a car show Saturday. It has been hard to open for a while and I put white grease on it recently but it hardly helped. Last night, after struggling to open the hood again, I pulled the latch to try to fix it. I couldn't find anything obviously wrong with it except it has years of dust caked into the grease on the underside. Rather than clean it up I installed a cleaned and painted latch I had in my swap meet inventory. It opens like a new one now.
When we were in Kansas City my Suburban started an annoying metal to metal squeak. We traced it to the driver's door. But I could not find any signs of metal to metal in the door jamb or on the door. Yesterday I finally figured it out. The screws holding the bottom of the window track were missing and the rack was rubbing inside the door. Of course I had to pull the door panel to fix it. While I was in there I fixed another problem.
I had previously put a locking button in the driver's door handle but it quit locking. So I pulled that out. I discovered the keeper that holds the springs in had broken, one end of it was bent up, keeping the springs from pushing the pins into position. So while I had it out I re-pinned it to work with the ignition key. I didn't like the idea of having a separate key anyhow. I installed new springs as required and a new keeper.
I think we're now ready for the Lone Star Loop 1000 mile trip coming up in a couple of weeks. Cletis, Great horde of information here for little squeaky irritating problems many of us suffer with.
~Jim
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