Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,036 Posts1,055,460 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | 
#88713 10/22/2003 5:20 PM | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 26 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 26 | 52' 3100 with 235
12 volt
It has 'never' missed a beat until the other day. It won't start. Here's the symtoms:
Cranks like a racehorse
But no spark
Guage cluster dead for fuel and charging
No headlights, parking nor breaklights
And yes, I do have the key on.
Suspicion...the ignition switch. How best to test?
Any other pathways to check?
Thank You ahead of time.
jeff | | |
#88714 10/22/2003 6:28 PM | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | A '52 with a 235 running 12-volts is not original. That means the wiring may have been modified, and that makes it hard to know how it is setup...
Some of the things you are having trouble with do not normally go through the ignition switch, so it may not be the problem.
Since the starter functions you can assume the battery and battery cables are good. The problem is either the chassis ground (not likely) or the hot wire between the battery and everything else.
Check the number 10 or 12 wire running from the starter or charging circuit toward the fuses and dash. That is where I'd expect the problem to be.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | |
#88715 10/22/2003 7:48 PM | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,066 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,066 | seems like you do have a strange one,don't know about the lights and stuff but I for sure would check the coil,, points, etc dont give up, someone will come aboard to help you fix this thing,, good luck,,,,,Fred
Redryder pixMy HotrodA veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life."I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option. | | |
#88716 10/22/2003 9:29 PM | Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 264 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 264 | Sounds like your electrical system is dead past your starter. Do you have the "foot stomp" starter? If so, OldSub probably nailed it...you have a wiring problem between your starter and the rest of the electrical circuit. Your ammeter may be "open" too. I don't have the stock wiring but I recall the ammeter was in series with everthing else. You can test the ammeter theory by installing a jumper wire. If you have a push button starter, then obviously you have power to that switch. Where does it get it's supply from? | | |
#88717 10/24/2003 2:13 AM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The original wiring runs a main feed from the starter battery post, up to the headlight switch. There is a circuit breaker in the headlight switch that protects everything else in the truck, as you describe. The horn is an exception. Therefore a blown headlight switch circiut breaker will give you these symptoms. | | |
|
|
