The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts New here and COE ready

Hi gang. Found a 1948(ish) COE. I've NOT yet purchased it yet.
"My" COE

Yard wants $1500... no Title. Thoughts on price. It's only 15 miles from me.

I see a lot of 1/2 ton v. 3/4 ton drop on discussions. Is the cab fairly close to a modern pickup as far as weight? I'm thinking a late model chassis/engine as there is no chassis on this one, and God only knows when the engine was run last. Plus, newer mechanicals = better to me.

Not sure of final project, but kinda feel I should jump on this while I can. Going to look at it again in the morning.

Thoughts? Good to see a bunch of fellow wrenches out there.

-Grant

Oh yeah.... I see youse guys talking everything from 1 tons to 1-1/2 and on and on. How do you know what the original chassis was?

Thanks to admin for moving this. Wasn't sure where to post other questions!

Grant,

The serial number on the cab would ID what chassis it originally had and if the truck has series numbers on the hood that will ID them as well.

3000 Series are 1/2, 3/4 & 1 ton.

4000 Series are 1-1/2 ton.

5000 & 6000 Series are 2 ton.

Then starting in 1956 Chevrolet introduced the 2-1/2 to line up with the 7000 & 9000 Series LCF's and the 8000 & 10000 Series Conventionals.

Hope this helps...and Welcome to the Stovebolt

Mike B

As Mike posted, the vehicle serial number (ID) is on a plate on the cab between the driver's door hinges.

If it has the original engine, that will also help to ID the year. The engine serial number is pressed into the block, just to the rear of where the distributor goes into the block.

After we see the engine information, I'll post a link to information on where to find engine and head codes.

Rust is the major factor affecting value. If you can do metal work, that would be a good thing. Sheet metal parts for COEs are much harder to find, compared to conventional cab parts.

As is said quite a bit around here, they are worth what you are willing to pay for it. You do have a couple of things going for you, and Tim can probably confirm this but it looks like a deluxe cab with the trim around the windows, the grill looks straight which you don't often find and the hood and doors look ok too. The steps on the other hand look like there isn't much left so will require some parts hunting to replace.
Just my opinion but I think $1500 is too steep. If it sets there too much longer it won't be worth much to the guy and scrap value could only be what, $100-200? Let the guy know you are interested and see what his bottom price would be.
There have been many conversions were these cabs have been put on late model running gear from half ton all the way up. One issue with going with the s-10s and smaller trucks is the tires often look too small in those big wheel openings. That may not bother you though. Also the earlier trucks had narrower WMS to WMS compared to a lot of modern trucks causing the tires to stick out a little too far. Again this may not bother you. I'm just saying. If you do some searches and check out the Tech Tips, there is all kinds of info on tire, wheel and brake upgrades for big bolts.
Keep us posted on your purchase and good luck!

If the parts that we can see are original: based on the hood side-emblems, and the side windows, and left-cowl air scoop, the truck would could be from 1947 through mid-1949 (the hood side-emblem changed in mid 1949).

I do not see a gas tank filler on the passenger side, indicating pre-1949.

The bright window trim might indicate a deluxe option, but it does not have a chrome grill?

If the following parts are original, they might help to ID the year: direction of interior door handles, transmission, composition of the front hood-emblem, and pinstripe color (however, if looks like a non-standard paint job based on the cab "belt" color(special order or re-paint)).

Thanks for all the help gang. I'm pretty sure the guy said this was a '47, but I'll confirm.

I don't see ANY tank filler. Would it have been off the cab section then?

Door handles appear in the one pic. Does that help?

I'm fairly certain it has original engine and possibly tranny. Are those of ANY value? (As in I don't want them and would someone else?)

Tim, the link to your AD doesn't work.

Thanks again guys. Going to see this again around 10am EST. Will report back and post more pics.

-Grant

The gas tank would have been mounted to the frame, typically on the passenger side behind the cab.

In my opinion that's to much dough for that COE truck cab, it really don't matter what year it is, Maybe 800.00 for it and that's pushing it! Look at the fenders, needs lots of body work,if you find a better body without doing a ton of body work you would be better off, How much rust is there? If you find a truck that has all the parts that you will have to change out later,why buy it? That truck has been on ebay for sometime now. For me? Pass, Keep looking. They are cool to own but when it takes over you life with working on it and buying parts (that are not that easy to find)to get into a shape you like might not be the right thing. In my humble opinion.

Grant,

Clear your browser's cache and history. If you still cannot get to my website you need to change DNS addresses in network settings. Your ISP might be like one of mine - it does clean up its saved addresses.

Here are two open DNS addresses that are well maintained by Google:
8.8.8.8
8.8.4.4

A couple of other guys have said it but I will add my voice. That is too much money for a truck in that condition. I don't know what your mechanical experience is but that would be a big job. Even if you just pulled the cab and dropped it on a new chassis. If you are set on that truck don't pay more than scrap iron price for it.

BaldBenny: Love your comment, "...when it takes over you life ..."

I've posted more pics here and done some simple labling.

One thing I've seen in other info is doors. They are sold and close with great gaps. Well, there is rust. On a scale of 1-10, how would you guys rate this?

BTW, It's in the pics, but Chassis ID is: 10R-C 1209

Thanks again for all comments/advice!
-Grant

Tim- Cache clear did it. Thanks

For me the "No title" is the big killer. Could be a worse nightmare than the metal work. Just my .02.

Grant, I've owned more of these old COE's than the average guy,(close to thirty)& in my opinion, that cab, & front sheet metal is a parts donor at best. I feel you can get a better truck for that price. What's left of that trucks, worth no more than scrap price, which would be aproximatly around $400, or $500 tops.

Guys... Great advice. I'm gonna keep my eye on it, but pass for the moment. If ya happen to see one out there, let me know!

Thanks again.
Grant

Spanky, not dissagreeing with you one bit. Grant,I think you can find a truck that is a much better starting point than that for the money.
For what its worth, and I am sure scrap prices vary from state to state, a co-worker just scraped a whole 80s F250, motor and trany included and only got 2 or $300 for it.
Even if you had the ability to do all the metal work yourself, you would have many hours fixing it and if you hired it out, you would spend a fortune before any color was sprayed.
Good luck.

baldybenny- I can't find this on Ebay. In fact when I look for COE's I can only find a hand-full. What am I doing wrong?

Grant.... Run from that truck, Please!

Grant, if your looking for a nicer COE than that one just go on the For Sale post and ask for one for sale, There, Somebody will have something for you,or maybe have leads for you,Don't be in a hurry to get one, Take your time and wait for a real truck.

How far are you willing to go to get one? Transportation costs add up quick, but I think I saw one the other day in Bloomington IN. If your interested I'll look into it.

In my experience you can drive half way across the country after a nice rust free truck for less total money than you can buy a rust bucket around here, I have on several occasions and plan to again.

Figure out just what you want and search for it. The Swap Meet section here is great.

Grigg

That COE cab would be a good one to sit on a modern chasis, but I don't know about $1500

Thanks guys. I have OFFICIALLY "dropped" this one. Many reasons (some are "life" related), but you guys know LOTs more about this than I do, so will trust your collective judgement.

One life reason is I'll be moving soon and don't want to move that thing twice. I'm sure the yard owner would let it sit there, but that's not the point. Life Reason II: I may be moving to TN. I gotta believe between TN, VA, KY and NC, there is a truck to be had.

I'll look in the pages you suggested.

Thanks again!
Grant

Eric, sure, but don't put yourself out. I'm a good month or two until I "need" to do anything on this.

The reason for this post and my interest was that the (now officially dropped) COE in this post string is really close to me.

Smart man Grant! You saved thousands! Good luck on your move! You'll find one somewhere between there. Keep us informed on you progress! Baldy

A lot of guys,(me included),don't want to spend much over $2,000.00,for a complete,running truck,in need of little to no body-work.,as far as RUST issues. Cab-overs in good shape,do demand a slightly larger price-tag,since body parts are rare,as well as the up-draft carb system. Be patient,and find one that you can enjoy and drive in much-less time that this cab/configuration has to offer-especially at that price.

Grant,
that truck is 2 years rustier than when I last saw it. I think he had a GMC at the time that was in much better shape. You must be close to me because I stop at buds auto from time to time. He has even bought stuff from me. His prices are high and the stuff he drags from out west is not in the graetest shape.
Shane

Willy, Thanks for the info!
Shane- Sent you a PM.

I think Bud's does a good job hauling stuff back, but doesn't run a very sharp business. If he would inventory and list the contents of the trailers he has stuffed that you're not allowed to look in, he'd make some serious ##.