The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Stripped steering bolt on AD

When checking out my horn which was not working, I noticed the bolt threads are stripped as well as the nut It looks like the bolt is beyond using a tap and dye. How do you remove it and are new ones easy to locate? Thanks, Steve

maybe you're talking about HRN3 here? but if by "the bolt" you mean the end of the steering shaft, you're out of luck if a die won't clean it up

Bill

Yes,red58 that is the right part and it is stripped out also. But where can I find a new bolt and does it have a specific name? The link you suggested does not seem to have it. Steve

the "bolt" that nut goes on is the steering shaft, the other end of which is the worm in the steering box, if you can't clean up the threads you need a steering column - all one piece, only available used

Bill

You might try rethreading the top of the shaft with a slightly smaller thread, maybe a metric one a few thousandths smaller in diameter. As long as the shaft thread and the nut used on it match, a different thread pitch and/or diameter won't cause any problems. Otherwise, you'll need to change the entire shaft and worm gear assembly.
Jerry

I was thinking the same thing, Jerry. I've saved the cross shaft frame studs in G series Chevy vans by doing that. Perhaps 12mm x 1.50 or even 1/2-13 threads should do it.

Definitely, Bill, even if the shaft diameter has to be reduced a little with a Dremel tool to get the smaller die started. Fine thread dies take a shallower cut, so 12 X 1.25 or a 1/2-20 would probably be better.
Jerry

Is this what your refering to as the bolt?

...pic...

Did you get the nut removed?
Sometimes the end of the shaft is staked or peened over so the nut will not back out easily. The nut could of gauled on-the way out.

Can you post a pic of the threads?
You may be able to save it with some jewelers file

I agree with using the finer thread, but if the '53 is the same as the '55s, 1/2-20 might be out, as that's the oem thread size. 12mmx1.25 might be the most viable solution.

Since the only purpose of the threads and nut, is to keep the steering wheel from falling off, not to engage the shaft, one can remove the whole works, put it in a lathe, turn new threads, or, drill out the shaft for a smaller bolt to hold the steering shaft on, or,

carefully, drill and tap the shaft in place for a smaller bolt, leaving enough meat between the splines and the OD of the new bolt.

Only do this if one is skilled at this, otherwise, get someone who is.

Thanks again Jerry, I always respect your advice. I will see what I can do. Steve

Thanks Bill, when you and Jerry team up, I know I am getting sound advice.

Yes that is the one I am talking about. I removed the nut. Does gauled mean stripped? Steve

can you describe whats going on?

will the nut start at all?

do you tighten the nut and the nut just spins?
Post a pic if you can so we can get a better Idea, if you cannot post a pic , send me an e mail and Ill host it.

I'm hoping you can save it.

When I removed the nut, it was difficult to do especially near the end. What I found was the nut's threads were worn smooth and almost non existent. Some of the threads on the bolt are stripped, but not like the nut. I can't get the nut to start. I tried to get a good close up of the bolt but it isn't very clear. I will try to post it tonight.

Quite often, the top of that thread gets bulged when someone tries to remove the steering wheel by hammering on the top of the thread instead of using a puller. The spline has a gradual taper, which locks the steering wheel tight onto the shaft and requires a jackscrew puller to break the bond. When someone tries to remove the nut, it gets stripped, and the top few threads also get damaged. If there are a few undamaged threads near the bottom,, sometimes some careful filing or grinding to taper the top few threads will allow a die to get started and straighten up what's left. Be careful- - - -you'll only get one try at this procedure! If it works, a new nut solves the problem. Just don't get too energetic when tightening it!
Jerry

By "straighten up what's left" Hotrod is saying to "chase" the threads on the "bolt"/steering shaft with a thread die, carefully. Make sure the die starts on the same threads that are already there!!!! BEFORE THAT, use a file to chamfer the end of the "bolt"/shaft to get rid of the goofed up threads/bulge so that the die will start. Sometimes you can use a thin hack saw blade to freshen up those first goofed up threads. After you have cleaned up the threads/shaft, as he said, Get a NEW nut and run it up and down slowly to see if it is going to thread on easily without using a wrench, especially don't use a socket wrench to test because you can't see what's happening, then install wheel. You only need a three or four thread engagement of the new nut outside the wheel hub. DO NOT USE THAT OLD NUT AGAIN ON THE SHAFT. KEEP IT AT LEAST 10 FEET AWAY AT ALL TIMES.

If the end is crushed as described by Jerry (highly likely IMO) this is the magic tool to repair it without the chance of cross threading:

http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/murray-tools-thread-repair-system.html

I've also used a thread-chasing file, a square tool with 8 different sets of teeth that follow the existing threads and recut the damaged ones. Just find the right number of threads per inch on the file, and use that set of teeth to follow the good threads and recut the damaged or flattened ones. Filing the obviously bulged part of the thread down beforehand makes it a lot more likely that you'll be successful with the repair.
Jerry

That is a neat idea. If I were rich I'd buy a couple of sets.

Jerry, are you talking about what CurtB just described...the Murry tools split die repair system.It sounds like by using this system, you wouldn't go with a metric 12mmx1.25 that was discussed earlier that Bill(longbox550) suggested. But instead keep the bolt size as original. Can this be done with a standard tap and die set? Sorry, this is kinda new to me. Steve

Great discussion, Guys!

I learn so much on how to deal with issues correctly the way you Pros do.

I recently had a similar problem whle re-attaching the left wiper pivot to the cowl. I mis-threaded and stripped the pivot. After proclaiming profanities, I was able to encouraged the nut to follow its old path. I was even able to tighten it down A SECOND TIME when I had to again remove it because I mistakenly had the wiper arm travelling in front of a dash bracket instead of behind.

I am definitely going to order one of those Split Dye Thread Chasers too, so thanks for the link, Curt!

I believe Jerry is referring to these.

Sometimes it's more about the technique than the tool and in this case you can try something similar. Cut a nut in half with a thin zip disc, assemble the halves near the splined part on the good threads, clamp halves together with a hose clamp, and back it off over the damaged portion. Put a good sized chamfer on the end first to remove galled or smeared material.


Starting a die with no reference to the existing thread rarely follows the pitch as there is only one orientation point out of 360 degrees. This is why the careful filing is done so as to provide a "track" for the die to follow and if not the threads end up "washed out" or "double cut". From the picture my guess is that the thread is 1/2"-13 UNC having a pitch of .076". If so, an M12 thread is only 1/32" smaller on diameter meaning some of the existing threads will be left behind if converting. For this reason I would suggest using an M12 X 1.75 (coarse) die having a pitch of .068" which is much closer than M12 X 1.25 which has a pitch of .049" and would result in reduced thread profile remaining.

Thank you so much for this link as I really need it thanks to the PO's 'restoration shops' handiwork. Any idea what the thread size of a 59 GMC sector shaft might be?

I did this as an emergency repair once while in the service, used a 1/4' drill and hand taps.

I believe the sector shaft thread is a 1/2"-20, or a 5/8"-18, not sure which. I'd suggest getting one of the thread repair files and trying to clean up the damaged area at the top of the thread, even if you choose to chase them with a die afterwards. It's essential to remove the bulged area at the top before a die will engage the existing threads and follow along the same track as the original thread. If you've got a few good threads near the bottom, all that's necessary is to clean up the top enough to get a new nut down to the remaining good threads. Good luck!
Jerry

I'm going to need it, the shaft was hit so hard the top is bulged badly to the left.

If the shaft is really badly damaged, the drill & tap repair that's been described might be your only option. Is the shaft hollow, with the horn wire coming up the middle? If so, you've already got a well-centered hole to guide a drill bit, so you can enlarge the hole in the top of the shaft 1/16" or so at a time until you can thread the hole for a 7/16-20 bolt. That tap drill size for that is about 13/32", or a "W" letter drill. It will probably be necessary to hacksaw or grind the damaged end off the steering shaft to get a good drill/tap procedure done on the end of the shaft.

Once the steering shaft is drilled and tapped, it will probably be possible to center-drill the bolt and run the horn wire back through the middle of it. Another option would be to use an aftermarket horn button clamped to the side of the steering column.
Jerry