The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline rear brake shoe removal

I'm replacing my rear brake shoes. I have a 1950 3600.

Anyone have detailed instructions on removing the rear shoes? I looked in the manual, and the part I am stuck on is "Remove brake shoe anchor pin lock and pin". Is it a c-clip? Special tools required?

Thanks much

The pin is at the bottom center. It has a large head on the outside and it goes through the shoes and anchor plate. It emerges behind the plate and that is where the clip is. One side of the clip is bent up. This must be bent down and then the clip will slde sideways and pop off the pin. Here is a photo of a clip. Chevs of the 40s "Pinlock Part 475508

Thanks much. I wound up pullng the shoes down and sliding the clips off the back side of the pin and spring pin that goes through the shoes. I left the brackets in place. I did loose one of the anchor clips. Can I just use snap rings instead? Even if I get the clip off the large center pin, it would be a stuggle to get it out as there is no way to get behind it to tap it out??

btt

I agree that it is not very convenient! For the clips with the springs I felt that they were too strong to use a C clip. The C clip distorts under the force of the spring. The truck part vendors do carry the locking clips but the sizing is hard to get right. Just a few weeks ago someone posted a source for buying the clips and it wasn't a truck parts vendor.

Well, I removed everything and ordered new anchor clips (mostly because I lost one).

I feel better now that they are all off and cleaned up. I can tell the shoe were not moving freely. Putting all together with new wheel cylinders too. Will use anti sieze on all the moving parts.

I also had the drums turned. They were a bit out of round, but it did not take much and they came out great.

So now it's time to wait for parts. Should have it together by next weekend. Next month, I'll do the front (with my new found confidence...

brake shoes
Old parts.. yuk
Turned drums
Cleaned up ready to go.. I hope

Comments? Suggestions? Am I on the right track?

I bought new wheel cylinders for the front of my 1 Ton and I had the back ones rebuilt. I was able to cause the thread to fail on the new front ones with a lot of foot pressure. There was so much clearance in the adjuster threads that the piston pushed the caps right out over the threads of the inside shaft. My point is I would advise you to hang on to all your old parts.

Good point. I will even tear them apart and hone them out to see what they look like.

I ended up using the adjusters from my old cylinder to corrct the problem.

I have the old wheel cylinders apart and cleaned up just in case. The adjusters were mostly frozen (shame on me) and some of tabs on them were bent or broken off.

I'll be sure to use a good dose of antisieze on all moving parts before assembly.

When I do my fronts, I might attempt a rebuild of the wheel cylinders using the best parts I have.

I can't find my brake spring tool. I'll pick up a new one. It looks like I might be able to put the spring on, then use a big srew driver to pry the shoes open to go on the adjusters?

We'll see later this week.

Thanks for the help.

I have never tried putting it together that way. those springs inside the cylinders want to pop the pistons out when there is nothing holding them in.

I used the brake spring tool as in the manual but it took a little divot out of the lining. Some folks put something on the lining to stop the tool from digging in.

An idea I have is to use a tie wrap on the wheel cylinder so the adjusters and pistons don't pop out. Perhaps it would best to just put the spring on last with a spring tool?

Tie wrap is what I use and yes I think putting the spring on last is the way to go.

Update...
I have everything apart and cleaned up. Pics of the new wheel cylinders and even through together a new brake line. Master cylinder and the snap ring anchors will be here tomorrow. Hope all goes together well. I'm using plenty of anti seize.

pic1
pic 2 pic 3

Update again. All went together well. The new wheel cylinders did not work as they did not have enough offset to match up with the shoes. I wound up using the old cylinders and re-building them. They seemed to work fine....

Everything adjusted and blead out fine. Good hard peddle and the parking brake works better then ever.

Will do the front brakes next month. I know the shoes are good, but the adjusters could use a good cleaning, etc...

Thanks for all the help.

updating/fixing brakes are one of the most satisfying maintenance jobs.. cool how you can tell immediately if they were done right and you feel the improvement

Since the rear brake job was successfull, I'm ready to attack the fronts. I've had the front drums off last year and the shoes were in great shape.

My plan is to remove the drums and visually inspect. Then lubricate the pins that the shoes pivot on and make sure the wheel cylinder is not leaking. Remove and lubricate the adjusters (using anti sieze). I do NOT plan on turning the drums until I put new shoes on it.

I will clean and inspect the wheel bearings at the same time.

Any suggestions/thoughts?

Thanks.