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Joined: Apr 2012
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I will be replacing the Intake and Exhaust Manifold gaskets - should I use some type of gasket sealer?

Thanks,

Dave


Me and my '53!
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It's not really a good idea. Intake vacuum can draw sealer into the engine, and most sealers won't survive exposure to exhaust gas temperature. Clean, dry, and straight surfaces are the key to getting a good seal on the intake/exhaust flanges. Make sure the alignment rings are in the intake passage counterbores to keep the gasket positioned correctly.
Jerry


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Thank you Jerry - I love this site! Seriously, I would never attempt any of this stuff except for the fact that you guys are helping me every time I have a question. Thanks again smile


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Uh oh, I bent one of those intake ring thingies when I was removing the manifold. Does anyone one what those are called and where I can order some of those?


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autozone carries them, don't remember what they're called though


1949 Dodge Coronet
1955 2nd Chevy 4400 1.5 ton
1955 2nd Chevy 3100 1/2 ton
1955 2nd Chevy 3100 1/2 ton
1957 Chevy 5400 LCF 2 ton
1966 Dodge D100 Sweptline
1968 Chevy P20 stepvan
1969 GMC LWB pickup
1972 GMC Sprint
1974 CP30 shorty bus

There are three things that I've learned never discuss with people: religion, politics, and the Great Pumpkin.----Linus Van Pelt
Trying to understand the behavior of some people is like trying to smell the color 9 big_eek



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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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intake manifold to head alignment rings

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Thanks Guys! I'll try AutoZone and as a backup, I was able to find them (using the name) at www.bowtiebits.com.

The 2 studs that hold the intake on top of the exhaust were really rusted and snapped-off when I turned them. Are those absolutely necessary?

Thankfully the ones actually holding on the manifolds did respond well to the penetrating oil and came out without issue.


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Originally Posted by ThirtySixHundred
The 2 studs that hold the intake on top of the exhaust were really rusted and snapped-off when I turned them. Are those absolutely necessary?
If your referring to these studs
...pic...

Yes, they are necessary

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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The nuts on those studs had to be cut off on mine. I was afraid they would break - I did not want to remove broken studs with "not so easy-offs".

They had to eventually come off anyway, because I will be using the original intake with dual-exhaust headers.

We are now working on carefully getting the old studs off (using repetitive torch and penetrant applications).

As DADS50 posted, the studs/nuts are necessary (very few unnecessary parts were put on these trucks).

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Yes those are the studs - thanks for the pic that makes it clear


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Why does the Intake Manifold have this trap door into the Exhaust Manifold? Is this so it warms up faster when the engine is cold?


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When the engine warms up the Flap valve moves and directs the hot exhaust gasses out.

...click...

Is your not working?

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Dads50 - I'll have to check it now that I know what it is LOL.
Btw, I watched your YouTube video - excellent! My first build of my truck was done with my dad - great memories smile


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Thanks for your comments
You can test your valve like ...this...

Apply some heat to the spring and see if the flapper moves.


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Uh oh, the flap is completely rusted in the open position.

Given that I have the broken studs and frozen flap, would I be better off just replacing the intake and exhaust manifold or are their places that can refurbish these items?


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You can try some penetrating oil like kroil and let it soak. Hopefully you can free It up.

Repair shaft is available ...link...

For broken studs I like to use left hand twist bits. Step drill starting will a small size and work up.

It will take a bit of effort.

http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/1950_manifolds&page=all

Try posting in the parts wanted section if the forum if you chose to replace. Make sure you identify what year Model engine you have.


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Hi Gang, I finally got my manifolds ready to be re-installed when... upon cleaning up the Exhaust ports, I see they have been pitted by rust and they are not entirely flat on the bottom edge. Please take a look at the close-up pics using the links below to see the severity of the pitting.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B8Kq_P8shUUeVHdianpfZGtVbHc
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B8Kq_P8shUUeZXljVG5naHdwMlE

My thought for a solution is to add a thin layer of J-B Weld to help fill the gaps, what say you??

Thank you!


Me and my '53!

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