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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,268 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 | I think I have read EVERYTHING there is to possibly read about installing the corner windows on '51 3100 and still cannot find a complete answer. So, one more time. How on earth does anyone get the corner windows to install on an AD? Do you put the rubber in the cab first and then try to get the glass to fit in or put the rubber on the glass and then try the string method? I have tried just about everything and am becoming very frustrated. Of all the things I have done to this old truck this has to be the hardest. Where are all the old guys you used to work on the line? We are not that old? Someone must remember or passed on the secret. Help please. I don't think my original corner glass units can take much more.
Last edited by Peter_H; 09/09/2012 9:55 PM.
| | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | I might get in trouble for this, but, you could consider filing the edges of the opening a little larger. Also, I would put the glass in the molding first. I don't know if this is doable or not, but what about trying the install from the inside? I haven't put them in before so take my suggestions with a grain of salt. I'm sure others in here will give you some directions. Keep us informed. | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,516 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,516 | The rubber goes in first. A spray bottle with soapy water is a must for the whole process. Then fit the glass into the rubber,,lots of soapy water.The windows are tempered glass so they'll take a beating before they break. Then you fit the lock strip into place,,,more soapy water,and cuss words added here and there. A nylon "window stick" really helps to fit the lock strip into place. Its a slow process,good luck...................... This is all done from the outside.
Last edited by delux54panel; 09/10/2012 2:32 AM.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Peter, I'm not sure if you've seen this already but although this concentrates on the centre glass,the principal's exactly the same. Glass install.If you can locate some kind of sucker to hold the glass it will make things much easier,and like Marty mentions the corner glass is tempered,you'd be suprised how much of a beating it can take,go to your local Auto glass shop and beg,steal or borrow a Nylon stick like the one in the pictures. Good luck! 1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | There is no string involved and I think the rubber went on the truck first. You need lots of lubrication. Mine went flying quite a few times and I was lucky to catch them so another set of hands is a very good idea. | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 | Yeah, put the rubber in the hole first and then the glass is what they all say, but how many have actually done it that way?
It woundn't work that way for me and I used every cuss word I know and even made some up! I ended up taping the the rubber to the glass (about every inch) and then using a glass tool worked the edge over the lip in the cab. Both sides "popped" right in using this method. I agree with plety of liquid soap in a spray bottle and an extra set of hands from a very very patient partner helps a whole bunch..........
Last edited by johntsmith; 09/11/2012 2:00 PM.
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | Yeah, put the rubber in the hole first and then the glass is what they all say, but how many have actually done it that way?
It woundn't work that way for me and I used every cuss word I know and even made some up! I ended up taping the the rubber to the glass (about every inch) and then using a glass tool worked the edge over the lip in the cab. Both sides "pooped" right in using this method. I agree with plety of liquid soap in a spray bottle and an extra set of hands from a very very patient partner helps a whole bunch.......... I think you mean "popped"... | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 640 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 640 | I put the rubber on the glass and worked it from top to bottom. I found two tools that eventually worked for me. The first was a paint can opener. The slight curve on the business end helped grab the rubber and pull it out. the secone was a Tupperware orange peeler, which was useful for the same purpose. My wife is still [censored] at me for that.
You'll expand your curseword inventory, and hopefully you won't gouge up your paint like I did when the glass slipped down.
Good luck!! | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | Somewhere before half way around the thing becomes very unstable and wants to pop out. Once you get past half way it get a little easier. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Peter, I'm not sure if you've seen this already but although this concentrates on the centre glass,the principal's exactly the same. Glass install.If you can locate some kind of sucker to hold the glass it will make things much easier,and like Marty mentions the corner glass is tempered,you'd be suprised how much of a beating it can take,go to your local Auto glass shop and beg,steal or borrow a Nylon stick like the one in the pictures. Good luck! John here is a glass installer and knows what He's talking about. I looked at his pictures here and can tell you this is all you need to know.
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Somewhere before half way around the thing becomes very unstable and wants to pop out. Once you get past half way it get a little easier. True,the secret is not to make everything too slick,sometimes too much lubrication(soap) makes it like juggling jello! Hence the reason I prefer good old fashioned glass cleaner. 1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 | Here is another slide show on corner glass
....David
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 | Thanks for all replies. I tried putting the rubber in the opening first with ones that I had bought from JC but, the rubber was too stiff and was impossible to fit so we gave up the notion in frustration. We ordered another set from Steele Rubber and it was much better although we ruined that set trying to once again fit the glass into the opening. After reading this and many other threads and talking to Steele Rubber I have decided to put the new set of rubbers on the glass for a week or so to climatize and then fit them in the opening. Steele suggesting leaving a little slack and then gluing the two ends together. This is consistent with the methods suggested for the other windows in the truck. If it is still warm enough here this year when I get the new rubbers I will try it and report back. This is quickly becoming one of the most challenging tasks of my rebuild - one that I thought would be easy peasy. How on earth did they ever do this on an assembly line?? Thanks for all your suggestions. | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Thanks for all replies. How on earth did they ever do this on an assembly line?? Sorry to hear of your tales of woe Peter,but on your production line comment. If you're doing the same job day in,day out,it soon becomes second nature.... This is probably little consolation but...practice makes perfect! Good luck. 1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | Thanks for all replies. How on earth did they ever do this on an assembly line?? If you're doing the same job day in,day out,it soon becomes second nature.... This is probably little consolation but...practice makes perfect! Good luck. So is that a suggestion he grab a practice piece and trash it till he gets it down and then try with a new one? 
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | So is that a suggestion he grab a practice piece and trash it till he gets it down and then try with a new one?  From what I can gather Peter's already had his 'practice' shot! 1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | The biggest causes of the rubber gauling or tearing is usually down to the glass edge being poorly finished,lack of 'lubrication' or poor quality rubber. The main trick is to use the edge of the glass as a lever point keeping the plastic stick to as near 90 degrees to the glass and roll the lip over the glass using a twisting motion like this.
Last edited by jockbolter50; 09/16/2012 4:27 AM.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 | Yes, I have had my practice run! And yes, I did trash a good set of rubbers. My question about how they did this on the assembly line should have been worded more clearly. Did they put the rubber on the cab and then install the glass or put the rubber on the glass and then install it as unit? I am still not sure. If nothing else, Steele Rubber thinks I am wonderful :-) | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Peter,i'm not entirely sure how it was done in the factory,but the way I was trained to do it was to fit the rubber to the body, then work the glass into it, then install the lock strip. As I've said in many related threads,the section of the rear rubbers is in the form of an 'H' this usually dictates the installation technique mentioned above. If however the rubber is an 'S' section (such as the front windshields) that would normally be installed using the cord/rope method with the rubber on the glass. I hope this clears up any confusion,and as previously mentioned...good luck. Hopefully you won't be qualifying for a Steeles bulk order discount!  1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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