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I bought a Lincoln AC225 stick arc welder and attempted to hookup the cables. The Manual read "Upper Hole with Longer Cable...Electrode Cable" and "Lower Hole with Shorter Cable...Work Cable". However, my welder has the longer cable coming out of the lower hole and the shorter cable coming out of the upper hole.

The manual welder came with is for AC-225-S & 225/125. I went online to get a manual specific to my 225 arc welder, but it showed the same manual that came with my welder.

The little illustration in the manual of the welder looks more like an AC/DC welder. I thought maybe there was a different setup with an exclusively AC welder.

I emailed and asked Lincoln support if my welder was defective, and if not, is the longer cable for the electrode and the shorter cable for the work clamp. There was a message in my email stating that they'd get back to me within 2 business days.

In the meantime, what do you Guys think?

Thanks.

It does not make a difference on an AC only machine. On a AC/DC machine you can reverse the polarity by reversing them, DC straight or DC reverse polarity. This makes a difference for certain electrodes and position welding. For your machine try it on a piece of scrap weld it one way, then the other you should not see a difference.

I have an older Lincoln AC 225 that I bought new many years ago. Yes, the electrode cable should be longer than the ground.

John

The straight AC welder switches polarity 120 times a second, so cable position isn't an issue. Yes, the DC machines have a definite polarity preference for some types of rod. For instance, 7018 is a reverse-polarity rod used to make a smooth cap pass during pipe welding. The root pass was done with 6010 rod, which made an ugly, splattery weld that didn't need much slag removal, then the cap pass was done with reverse-polarity 7018 to give a smooth, high-strength finished surface.
Jerry

Thanks for the replys and info, Brad John Jerry.

I just went ahead and took the welder back and exchanged it for a different one with the cables in the same position as in the manual.

It works good.

Thanks again.

Sounds like a plan! BTW, I forgot to mention that for a really good-looking weld bead with an AC buzz box, try some #7014 welding rod. It's got a flux that works as well with AC current as 7018 does with DC, and it's not polarity-sensitive. With the right current setting, the slag curls up behind the weld as it cools and it doesn't require much hammering to remove it. The weld bead ends up flat and smooth, also.
Jerry

Thanks for the suggestion, Jerry. Any input is welcomed.

I've been playing around with some #6011 for lighter metal and #6013 for the heavier stuff and not doing too bad of a job with it.

Thanks again.

Funny story- - - -I was in a local welding supply store when a customer asked for some "eleven-oh-nine" welding rod. When the counterman told hin there was no such rod number, he argued that he had been using it for years. To get "1109", all you have to do his hold a piece of "6011" rod upside down!
Jerry

Kinda like a 710 cover on an engine...