The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Servicing points/condenser

I had my distributor out recently to change the points and condenser. The screw that holds the spring for the points and the terminal from the condenser is a slotted head screw that is practically impossible to get at, even with the distributor out of the truck. I was wondering if this is the original setup. On the outside, where the wire from the coil attaches, it's just a nut and a star washer. If you had to replace the points or condenser on the side of the road, you'd have to pull the entire distributor out and reset the timing. Is there a way to just do this with the unit in the truck? In my case, there would have to be a different setup besides what's there now because of that impossible-to-reach slotted screw inside the distributor.
Or maybe I'm missing something, which would not be unusual.

Originally there was a square shaped head on the inside of the distributor where the point spring and condenser went. This bolt passed through the distributor body and on the other side was a round nut that had two slots in it that tightened the point spring and condenser wire up as it tightened against the body. Then the wire from the coil went on top of the nut and another regular hex nut used to tighten the coil wire to the stud left sticking out.

Sounds like someone changed the stud that is supposed to be there out for a regular screw to me.

I think I may have an old distributor here with the correct bolt/stud to use. Maybe I can get a picture of it and send it so you can see what it looks like. But it will be later today.

That style nut started being used in 1953.

Here is a thread that discusses the nut and tools.

Joe,

No need to pull the distributor to change points and condenser. I use either a magnetic screw driver or a split blade driver. The split blade has a slide that when moved,will make the blade change thickness and will hold the screw tightly. As for the connection, I just loosen the nut enough to remove and replace the points and condenser leads and relighted. Set your point gap, and check your timing and you are finished. There are many tricks to roughly set your points if you are stuck on the side of the road. One is to use the flap from the box that the points come in. It's enough to get you home and do a precision job.
Hope that helps.
Mark

51bolt,
you might want to re-read his post.

OK, thank you guys. That explains everything. Next time I change the points and condenser, I'll put a different kind of fastener in there, one I can get hold of from above. I'll also try my hand at fabricating a tool for the split nut on the outside.

Joe, a piece of steel brake line tubing with some creative filing or grinding done to the end makes a good spanner wrench. Just leave two tabs that will engage the slots in the nut when the tool is slipped over the stud coming out of the side of the distributor, and weld a piece of round stock to the end,as a T handle, or drill a hole and make a sliding handle. Snap-On made a set of distributor service tools many years ago that included a slotted nut spanner, a couple of nut drivers, and a couple of point-aligning tools. Sometimes they end up on Ebay for a reasonable price.
Jerry

WOW! I blew that one. I had a completely different picture in my mind. Sorry for the confusion.
Mark

Thanks, Jerry. That seems like a pretty easy tool to make. For the inside, I'd try to grind the head of the screw so it was square and had two parallel sides I could grab with a pair of needle nose pliers or something.

The screw holding the condensor can also be a pain. Sometimes the new point contacts have a coating that will prevent them from working properly. They need to be cleaned by using emory cloth or rubbing alcohol before installing. You guys are right on with the info. I've used a business card to set points in an emergency.

I picked up a remanufactured distributor at NAPA a while back.
The insulated connector used a square stud
...pic...
...pic...

You might be able to find a similar connector at a tractor supply, or parts house
...link...
The terminal in the link is not the same as the NAPA part

That square stud is exactly the thing I was thinking of.

DADS50,

GREAT LINK!! Many had to find distributor parts and GREAT prices!!

Tim

That's funny I've got dizzies from two different 270s and they both have identical slotted screws. I have to use needle nose vice grips to hold the screw when loosening the nut.

On the last couple of distributors I have worked on I grind the outer insulator down so a standard hex nut can be used.
In this LINK you can see a before and after comparison. If you scroll through the pictures you can see it installed.
There is also a picture of the correct tool for the original nut.

I have another "correct" tool, shown in the middle.

Thank You for linking to this Tim.
I have been searching all day for that picture with no success.
I knew it was out there. I thought it was in my Service News but I missed it.