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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,267 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 504 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 504 | I recently rebuilt the Rochester 1ME monojet carb on the late 60's 250 that is in my 58 Burb. In my excitement to get the carb back on to test my handywork I didn't do many adjustments. I assumed you had to have the carb on the motor with it running to do the adjustments. Now when I go back through the repair tech sheet its hard to tell which ones require the motor to be running (RPM based adjustments). It kind of hard to bend over the fender and do any real work on the linkages that are on the back side of the carb.
Am I better of just taking it back off and working on the bench? If so, are there any adjustments that require the carb to mounted to the engine? Finally does anyone have any pictures of how to adjust the electric choke on that carb. I searched on YouTube but couldn't find anything.
Thanks
Larry
| | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | You must adjust the float level & metering rod with the air horn off the fuel bowl. All the linkage adjustments should be OK if no one has messed with them. The electric choke should close lightly at room temp. The pulloff should open it about half way when the engine starts or with a vacuum pump. The choke is adjusted by loosening the screws & turning the black houseing. It may have a notch that prevents it from being turned to prevent tampering with emissions. If nessesary you can grind the lump off the houseing. When the engine starts the oil pressure switch sends electrical juice to the coil & it should slowly open untill the choke plate is fully open. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
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